FAO: Fender Jaguar owners - The Bridge
Posted 09 May 2009 - 08:49 AM
This is a cause for debate amongst some Jaguar users, however, the most important thing is to find a solution that works best for you. There is no right or wrong way written in stone somewhere in the corridors of Fender.
On this forum this is a common topic within this section, we get the same questions over and over again. So..
There are some set-up tips in the FAQ section on this website and also on http://www.fenderjaguar.net/setup.htm where this topic is covered in depth.
After years of answering peoples questions concerning the Jaguar bridge on Youtube i thought for quick access i will put up some information here that i hope will answer some of the newer users questions.
1/ The bridge rattles and buzzes
2/ The grub screws work themselves loose
3/ The bridge moves back and forth
4/ The bridge slips down during playing
5/ The intonation screws are too long
6/ The strings jump on the saddles
At this point its worth considering a few things about the Jaguar. Firstly it was designed with the intention of players using heavy gauge strings like 12s or 13s. This does help with some of the problems but it does not mean it is the best answer to the problems, modern players generally use smaller gauge strings so if you dislike heavy gauge strings you can dismiss that solution.
Secondly, the bridge is supposed to move/rock back and forth. That is part of the design and how the tremolo system works, the bridge rests on two screws that forms a pivot whenever the tremolo is used. Fixing the bridge may jeopardise the tremolos performance, the guitars tuning AND you may encounter excessive string breakage.
1/ There is a device called a 'buzzstop' that is available from various stores and ebay for around £25.00. It screws to the tremolo tailpiece and works on the principle of increasing the string angle over the bridge increasing pressure reducing buzz.
A second solution is to raise the saddles via the saddle grub screws (so that the grub screws are slightly submerged in the saddles), then compensate the height by lowering the whole bridge via the two bridge post screws. Also lubricate all parts with something like vaseline, lypsol, grease, etc.)
2/ The grub screws probably wont be tight in their threads, this is common. So they work themselves loose with vibration. To stop this happening you need to stop the vibration within the thread, again- vaseline, lypsol or grease works well. You could even try PTFE plumbers tape or candle wax, some users have applied 'Super Glue' but its difficult to make any adjustments afterwards.
3/ The bridge should move back and forth as pointed out.
4/ The grub screws on the two bridge posts can also work themselves loose with vibration, this means the bridge slips lower over a period of time with guitar constantly going out of tune.
The solution is the same as with the saddle grub screws.
5/ Once your intonation is set up, if the intonation screws are too long you can cut these shorter with a hacksaw or simply snip them with the cutter part of a pair of pliers.
6/ Increasing the angle of the strings helps 'string jumping', whether you do it with a 'buzzstop' or raising the saddles. You can also file a small groove in each saddle with a triangular needle file. So that the saddle looks a little like a Mustang saddle.
Another common solution is to fit a Fender Mustang bridge, but some players still experience problems afterwards. That aside, the Jaguar bridge is a better bridge in respect it offers a lot more adjustability.
This information also applies to the Fender Jazzmaster bridge as it is the same.
I hope this is useful to people, and like i said.. find the solution that works best for you.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 11:44 AM
You wasted your time fran
Posted 09 May 2009 - 01:04 PM
That depends on what Alex does with this thread.
You wasted your time fran
I put it here as easy access for new members, instead of having to answer the same questions over and over again OR people like you giving incorrect advice.
Mikes video is new, if you could be bothered to look i have had a Jaguar set up video on Youtube for two years with over 1,300 viewings. There is also Hurbs set up which is years old. Get with it man.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 02:11 PM
But I hope it gets on the FAQ. Give Alex a PM
Posted 05 June 2009 - 06:44 PM
Posted 15 June 2009 - 02:38 PM
u got stiky'd fran!
I spent AGES looking for this thread...... I forgot to look right at the top >.<
Posted 10 September 2009 - 01:06 AM
Posted 11 September 2009 - 11:46 AM
Thanks for the ideas, its cool to know how different people find different solutions.
Posted 14 September 2009 - 04:28 AM
Happy trails. THE BIG CAT
Posted 29 January 2010 - 03:49 PM
Instead of adding an ugly buzzstop...
Couln't we just deeper the grooves on the saddles ?
Posted 29 January 2010 - 04:27 PM
Posted 29 January 2010 - 05:44 PM
Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:57 PM
Do you find it normal to do such a fix in on a 1700 € Fender instrument ?
Its a joke, and one we've all lived with for years.
Considering the price of the AVRI Jag (and even CIJ models at £500) you'd expect the guitar to perform well straight out of the box brand new. Unfortunately this is'nt usually the case and its abysmal on Fenders part to be quite blunt. Despite the guitars traditional intentions/set up you would think they would have corrected the problems concerning modern set up, but technically speaking, vintage reissues remain exactly what they are, warts and all.
I'd advise new buyers toward the MIM CP range now. Unless you are looking for some 'period correct' vibe/sound/look i dont see the point in vintage reissues anymore. I kind of feel sad typing that but things have moved on quite a bit in the last couple of years.
Posted 13 February 2010 - 11:56 PM
1995 sonic blue jag-stang
1997 fiesta red jag-stang
1997 alpine white mustang
2007 candy apple red jaguar
2008 black HH hardtail jaguar
Posted 03 April 2010 - 11:07 AM
Something here should be said about neck angle. There are, undoubtably, minor variations in neck angle [to the body, as viewed from the side] between different individual jaguars. This affects string tension over the bridge as much as anything you could do behind the bridge. One may wish to shim their guitar neck. Some Fender necks I've seen come from the factory already shimmed. It's just one more thing you can do, [or un-do], to change the tension of the strings.
Posted 04 April 2010 - 08:34 AM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users