This is a cause for debate amongst some Jaguar users, however, the most important thing is to find a solution that works best for you. There is no right or wrong way written in stone somewhere in the corridors of Fender.
On this forum this is a common topic within this section, we get the same questions over and over again. So..
There are some set-up tips in the FAQ section on this website and also on http://www.fenderjaguar.net/setup.htm where this topic is covered in depth.
After years of answering peoples questions concerning the Jaguar bridge on Youtube i thought for quick access i will put up some information here that i hope will answer some of the newer users questions.
Common Problems
1/ The bridge rattles and buzzes
2/ The grub screws work themselves loose
3/ The bridge moves back and forth
4/ The bridge slips down during playing
5/ The intonation screws are too long
6/ The strings jump on the saddles
At this point its worth considering a few things about the Jaguar. Firstly it was designed with the intention of players using heavy gauge strings like 12s or 13s. This does help with some of the problems but it does not mean it is the best answer to the problems, modern players generally use smaller gauge strings so if you dislike heavy gauge strings you can dismiss that solution.
Secondly, the bridge is supposed to move/rock back and forth. That is part of the design and how the tremolo system works, the bridge rests on two screws that forms a pivot whenever the tremolo is used. Fixing the bridge may jeopardise the tremolos performance, the guitars tuning AND you may encounter excessive string breakage.
Common Solutions
1/ There is a device called a 'buzzstop' that is available from various stores and ebay for around £25.00. It screws to the tremolo tailpiece and works on the principle of increasing the string angle over the bridge increasing pressure reducing buzz.
A second solution is to raise the saddles via the saddle grub screws (so that the grub screws are slightly submerged in the saddles), then compensate the height by lowering the whole bridge via the two bridge post screws. Also lubricate all parts with something like vaseline, lypsol, grease, etc.)
2/ The grub screws probably wont be tight in their threads, this is common. So they work themselves loose with vibration. To stop this happening you need to stop the vibration within the thread, again- vaseline, lypsol or grease works well. You could even try PTFE plumbers tape or candle wax, some users have applied 'Super Glue' but its difficult to make any adjustments afterwards.
3/ The bridge should move back and forth as pointed out.
4/ The grub screws on the two bridge posts can also work themselves loose with vibration, this means the bridge slips lower over a period of time with guitar constantly going out of tune.
The solution is the same as with the saddle grub screws.
5/ Once your intonation is set up, if the intonation screws are too long you can cut these shorter with a hacksaw or simply snip them with the cutter part of a pair of pliers.
6/ Increasing the angle of the strings helps 'string jumping', whether you do it with a 'buzzstop' or raising the saddles. You can also file a small groove in each saddle with a triangular needle file. So that the saddle looks a little like a Mustang saddle.
Another common solution is to fit a Fender Mustang bridge, but some players still experience problems afterwards. That aside, the Jaguar bridge is a better bridge in respect it offers a lot more adjustability.
This information also applies to the Fender Jazzmaster bridge as it is the same.
I hope this is useful to people, and like i said.. find the solution that works best for you.
Shouldn't I ? 
