Jagstang Bridge Flipped

Rook

I've owned my CIJ Jagstang for about three years and, call me oblivious but, I've never noticed that the bridge was flipped - intonation screws facing the neck. It even looks like someone took the time to adjust the height properly. I've searched the forum and found that bit about someone in a similar situation in the Davec setup topic, but other than whats mentioned there... Does it really matter that its flipped? I've checked the intonation and it wasn't horrible to begin with, so i fiddled with it and got it just right. Very minimal buzz. Seems alright I guess.

Or am I just confused? In the past I typically played a strat, so I have no clue. I've come to appreciate the Jagstang and I've been trying to treat it a little better lately, but I can't get over the tuning issues. Lock it or screw it down?

AnotherTool

The bridge being that way around doesn't affect anything, i did it to mine, just because it's easier to fiddle with the intonation. Normally i'd quote that clever bastard who said "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but in this case i won't.

Using two bolts to lock off the trem works wonders for the tuning stability on those guitars if you don't use it anyway.

Rook

Much appreciated. I'm obviously new here but I've been lurking for a year or so. I keep coming back because this forum can be insightful and damn funny at times.

I just did a quick search for bolt and lock. What? Do you mean screw it down as on the Davec setup topic or is there some other method I'm missing? Apologies if I missed something. Just confused by "using two bolts to lock it down"

AnotherTool

I didn't use the Davec method, when i first came here in about 96/97, there were only a handful of people with modded jag-stangs.

The posts for the trem, are two posts that sort of let the tailpiece rock on the posts, all i did was find two bolts that were the same thread as those posts, but shorter in length, and some washers to bolt it down.

So take your tailpiece and trem section to your local DIY store, and start trying out bolts and washers until you find the right ones. Your aim is to have the bolts going through the bottom of the trem plate, through a washer and then into the tailpiece leaving it as close to the trem plate as possible.

I hope that makes sense to you, that's what i did and the tuning stability went up like 200% instantly. If it doesn't make sense i'll try and explain it a different way to you or you could even try Davec's method first, it's not like it costs anything to try it as it doesn't require any parts.

nirvana23freak

i just bought 3 washers that fit, slide them on, and tightened the bar down until it was flat against the plate

Rook

No need for more, thanks. That was exactly what I needed. I really love the neck but the tuning was driving me mad.

Thanks again for clearing that up.

iCEByTes

follow mad mike guides to tune an jag-stang bridge

and you gonna get 101% stable bridge and tail ... works like magic

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14552

Rook

Can't believe I didn't see that one

As for the lube used in the mad mike method... I don't know whether I have any type of grease on hand. I'll take a look. Do you think gun oil would work? Thats the only utility oil I really have on hand. I've never heard of the type of gun oil I use ruining finishes because its used specifically for maintaining my grandfathers hand me down WWII Enfield - bolt, wood, all. Not sure how long it'll last though. What has everyone else used?

I'm not opposed to locking the trem down but I have used it in the past and I'd rather not kill anything useful. I'll try this before I lock it down.

Ahahah... Alternative use for js tremolo: Improve your grip strength - better than your average grip exerciser

Update: Okay, I gave up on the oil. It ran and I know it wouldn't last at all.

I pulled my grandpas gun cleaning kit out of the closet. This thing is old. We're talking 50 years or so. I dug around in it and found two lubricants:

Gunslick - Anhydrous Graphitic

And I did a search on it: Any friction points, including but not limited to trigger mechanisms, slide rails, sear pivots, magazine releases, etc. It is a graphite grease, very slick and very good. Graphite is an excellent dry lubricant, and the grease base is to make it stick where you put it.

This stuff is ugly as sin. Looks like burnt motor oil almost.

Lubriplate Rifle Grease

Guess it's just an average grease? Least it's kind of clean looking.

So I guess I'll use that Gunslick. Think I could use it on the nut as well? I'll try it.

Update Again:

And wow. The MM Method works wonders. Tuned it, stretched it, tuned it, used the trem, expected it to be #### out of tune. Still perfect.

Also taped the bridge post as suggested in another topic.

Thanks again for all the advice. Heres to hoping it lasts.