The Origiunal ABR Tune-O-Matic with the wire might not intonate properly if using the existing bridge holes as the adjustment path on the original ABR Tune-O-Matic is not as wide as the Gotoh. However, the upside to this one is that it will be easier to file the saddles to get the string radius right. This is what I have on my Jaguar (bought it that way), and it's highly tuning stable, but if the saddle string notches are not filed right, it can kill susatain when using the tremelo bar, however, the sustain you get with it is almost Les Paul like with a proper setup. I've only seen 2-3 Jaguars and Jazzmasters with one of these on them, Sonic Youth I'm unclear on which one (been awhile since I've been to their site), the Cobainized Jaguars from Japan have them, and mine has one. Kurt's might have had the bridge changed on it too, because mine sounds a shocking lot like his from "You know You're Right" behind the bridge on the lower 2-3 strings, so I dunno.
The Gotoh Tune-O-Matic is about 3mm longer, and has a smaller bridge saddle with a longer range of travel, but they are also closer to the top of the bridge frame, which means it might be impossible to get the outer strings low enough to fit the fretboard arc (I don't know, I've never used one on a Jaguar). The screws are held in by hex nuts on the end rather than a retainer wire. Also, if you have a high breakover angle on the strings, the strings can wind up leaning against the edge of the bridge on the back end. Due to the width of this bridge, I'd say it's the easiest to install on a Jaguar/Jazzmaster without a problem.
I know some copy guitars might have 7.16" Radius, as I recall having a 70's Aria SG in my possession for awhile (I was rewiring it for a friend) and it had a radius similar to that on a Jaguar/Jazzmaster, so it may have been 7.16. This bridge was thinner than the Gotoh though, so it might have to be angled to intonate properly, however, the saddles were a really hard plastic material, so it would have been easier to modify for string radius than an ABR, though that mightve been moot from what I remember, that guitar's neck reminded me a LOT of a Fender Jazzmaster neck.
On all of them the neck would have to be shimmed, but then I suggest it on ANY Jaguar or Jazzmaster regardless of a TOM or not since the increase in breakover angle improves the sustain immensely. The original bridge sits pretty low, and when adjusted all the way down to the pickguard on a stock Jag or JM, makes the strings run almost straight from the nut to the tailpiece, and makes the thing almost unplayable without the extra downward tension.
As for my Jaguar with the ABR TOM, the treble side bridge hole was filled and redrilled, as well as the pickguard was ground about 2mm north in the hole where the original bridge thimble sat. Then the Tune-O-Matic standard wood anchors were pressed into the body, the metal rods that hold the bridge in were screwed into these anchors, the rollers were screwed on, and then the bridge was placed on top of those. The bridge saddles have been cut to compensate for the neck radius, though not perfectly (I can take the LOW E down to the fretboard and the darn thing plays like one of those "fretless wonders" on the E and A without buzzing, but for the D and G strings, forget it, and the higher two choke out due to the radius/fretting). When the saddle grooves are filed, you have to make sure that it's smooth, nothing sharp or pointy is in the groove, and that there are no burrs, or you might wind up with string breakage problems. I had some of that on the High E, I filed it smooth and rounded just a tad on top, and it breaks strings no more.
