First, I set the bridge up with it pulled all the way back in it`s sockets, and I dampen any possible vibration against the sockets themselves with a little masking, or electrical tape on the bridge posts. Next, after setting the action and intonation, I use a little white glue (called "Kristal Kleer", used by plastic model builders for sticking-on clear parts) on all the screws on all the saddles, as well as between all the saddles- glueing them all together. The glue sticks hard enough to hold everything still, but not so hard as to make future re-adjustment difficult, and it dries clear. I also put some on the two screws that raise and lower the whole assembly, `cause they can rattle, too. If after you`ve really eliminated all the possible sources of rattle among the parts, and you still get a buzz on the E string, consider getting a buzz-stop attachment, or a Mustang bridge, or both.
I played for years with a stock Jaguar bridge using Ernie Ball "heavy bottom" strings, and got only minimal buzz from the low E, and only when I plucked it Really Hard. I added a buzz-stop, and it pretty much solved the problem, but now I`ve switched to a Mustang bridge, and no buzz-stop, with a set of Ernie Ball "power slinky" (11-48) strings.The bigger bridge saddles of the Mustang bridge, with fewer moving parts, add a lot to the tone and sustain of the guitar, and it`s so much easier to set up.
I can still hear a slight ghostly metallic whine in the low E string when I hit it hard, and open, but I just consider it a part of the guitar`s personality. The sound dissappears entirely when the string is fretted from the first fret up.
