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  5. Interesting! I too own a CP Jag HH and it came brand new with a screw in arm? That was one of the special features that distinguishes a CP Jag from a regular Jaguar, besides the other ones you mentioned. It sounds like you've got a stock pop-in Jaguar bar instead of the screw in bar. If you are attempting to use a pop-in Jag bar with a stock CP Jag collet designed for a screw in bar, then I would not expect the bar to stay in place very well-the stock Jag pop in bar and matching collet are wanky enough as is! I'll bet you can order the CP Jag screw-in bar from Fender. If you get it and it does not screw in properly, then you will need to order the proper threaded collet as well. From what I understand, the collets and bars in most Jaguar models are interchangeable, but you have to have a collet and bar that match, which, apparently, you do not. Another feature of the CP Jag is that the tailpiece is positioned about 1/4" closer to the bridge that on a regular Jag. This was designed to improve the break angle of the string over the bridge to improve tuning stability. Unfortunately, Fender forgot to shorten the bar to compensate for the repositioning of the tailpiece. A Jaguar bar is a little longer than a typical Strat bar. The net effect on a CP Jag is that the tip of the bar lies closer to the end of the fretboard. I did not like this and had my bar cut down. The tip of the bar now sits in a more favorable position relative to my fingers. This may not be an issue for you-I have small hands and the stock CP Jag screw in arm would be a huge improvement over one that keeps falling out on you. You could also cut your bar down and re-thread the tip at a machine shop if it you cannot adjust to the extra bit of length.
  6. Hi I am returning my 1963 Jaguar to its original colour Lake Placid blue I am sourcing a decal has anyone used Crox Guitars they charge £15 also should the headstock be matching or not?
  7. If you have any info on a blue cyclone ii for sale please email me at mrcurrado@gmail.com thank you!
  8. Update: For anyone also experiencing this issue, it turned out that there was not enough string tension pushing down on the bridge to hold it in place. There are two springs under the bridge attached to notched posts. I set the springs into the last notch at the end of the post for maximum spring tension and that pulled the lipstick tube back a bit, increasing the downward pressure of the strings on the bridge. Now the bridge no longer wiggles around and tuning stability after using the bar is greatly increased. I also suggest not going lower than .10 gauge strings. Tightening down the lipstick tube a bit more probably would have also helped.
  9. I found the correct sized nylon tipped grub screws on-line and bought a bag of 6, but you can probably find them at any hardware store. They work GREAT and are cheap. The nylon tip holds the bar in very securely, yet allows you to slide the bar in and out without adjusting the screw every time. It works very similarly to the pop in bar on my AmDlx Strat. I do have to ocassionally tighten the screw a bit as the fit loosens with repeated use, put it takes only seconds. I would post a link to the supplier I used but dont want to get in trouble for "advertising" on this site.
  10. I would like to replace the stock "Vintage Style" tuners on my Classic Player Jaguar HH with a set of high-quality direct replacement locking tuners. The stock tuners look identical to the vintage Kluson style tuners found on the American Original series, but I believe the gears are made of plastic instead of metal? I prefer NOT to do any drilling or routing on my headstock. I have read that there are sometimes compatibility issues with replacement tuners because of U.S. vs. metric measurements and that sometimes the posts or bushings can be either too big or too small? I assume the pegholes and bushings are metric sized on a CP Jag? Any ideas for direct replacement locking tuners? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
  11. I have worked on guitars for 30+ years. I have a JM, and 15 others from First Act (NOT THAT BAD) to older Epi's Harmony jazzboxes, Tele's ....more......I know, I know. The Jag/JM bridge is a workable unit if set up correctly. First- Put .11's on it, they way it was designed. D'Addario makes a nice set that is brighter than most (EXL115). Then, be sure it's centered, and not rocked back or forward. Then set the height. If you have individually adjustable saddles, make sure they follow the neck contour (you'll need a few luthier tools). If you look across the strings- you'll see if they are fairly even....you may have a low saddle/string on the buzzy one. Graphite the posts where they sit down in the body, as well as the nut. DO NOT lubricate the saddles where the strings contact them. Everybody seems to go straight to the Mastery bridge without even trying to set these up properly, but for a savings of well over a hundred dollars, (closer to 200) it's worth it to set it up right and see how you like it. Also- there are other aftermarket bridges that are closer to 25 dollars if you just have to change the Fender design. Mine stays in tune and I use the bendo bar a LOT. Thanks for listening, let me know if this works for you.
  12. I gave up and put the stock pups back in.Much happier. Something is definitely up with those pure vintage. too late to send back. :/ Maybe do a partscaster one day and give them another try.
  13. So the long story. I've had the guitar not quite a year and have really bonded with it. I decided I wasn't happy with the sound of the stock pickups ( not enough honk/jangle). So I bought a set of Fender Pure Vintage '65's and put in it. They are a little brighter and sound "okay" enough of an improvement over the stock ones in neck and bridge positions. The middle position has been driving me nuts. The output is noticeably lower and sounds worse than the Stock ones. I understand the neck is reverse wound / reverse polarity on the PV '65 and the Japanese pups aren't(tested with a compass).and have listened to several clean sound demos on YT. and can tell "something aint right"with my middle position. I used the wiring diagram what came with the pick ups. that's all good . I don't think the Japanese wiring is any different that I can see. I'm tempted to reverse the wiring on the neck and see(maybe I got a set with the leads put on backwards. seems like if it was backwards already it would sound out of phase which it doesn't I'm about ready to put the old ones back in. Lead circuit pots were not linear in range at all and replaced all the lead pots/cap/resister components because the needed replacing anyways. That's all better but my" tone" issue is at a standstill. I can say that my sounds (clean on ac30). While this post simmers, ill reverse the neck and see for fun and if not, go back to original pickups and see if I can send these back. Here's a pic since posts without a pic ain't much fun. Any opinions, thoughts appreciated .
  14. Wow. That is nice!!! Would you ever consider selling it?
  15. If you plan on keeping that guitar for a long time, get the mastery Bridge. and loose the buzz stop. You wont need it when you get the mastery.(and it hurts the tone, IMO) As far as the fret buzz, could just need a setup. Check the neck relief and adjust the truss rod if necessary. If that is good may have a high fret or possibly need a fret leveling.
  16. I would also love to know the answer to this...
  17. Hey @TobeyP I’ve been looking for a fiesta red mustang can you please contact me if your interested in selling it thanks. Melvin.montan@yahoo.com
  18. Hello! Check out this youtube video to see if it matches your problems with the tremolo. Not the same guitar but probably same tremolo issue.
  19. Hey, I just got a Classic player jaguar special HH and it's great. Love the pickups, all the tone control, the kill switch, the short scale neck. The only thing I don't understand is the tremolo arm. It doesn't screw in. It doesn't pop in. It just sort of sits in the hole, very, very, loosely, and flaps about. It falls out if I lean the guitar forwards. I can't figure out how to tighten it in any way. Surely this isn't how it's designed? Am I missing something? Any help would be really appreciated
  20. I’ve thought this myself. Mine definately looks more “Surf Green” than “Sonic Blue.” From others that I’ve seen, the blue is way more pale and subtle, but mine has a pop to it. It may have been repainted (early 2000 eBay find) but I love the look anyway.
  21. As the title suggests, i'm looking to replace the current stock pickups in a Mustang. I've decided to go with Lace. I'm also open to other suggestions, as i'm not 100% sold on them but they are my first option. I was also considering Fralin hot vintages, Lollar Dirty Blondes, maybe Dimarzio area series. But for right now i've decided on Lace. Right now im considering a gold sensor in the neck and blue in the bridge. The gold sensors capture that vintage strat sound at around 5.8k output. The Blue sensor supposedly can emulate a vintage humbucker sound with an increased output at around 12.8k.. Obviously i'd like to have a higher output on the bridge than the neck, and for the tone I want to capture I would prefer to have two "vintagey" sounding single coils, they say on Lace website the blue kind of mocks a humbucker tone, but it is theoretically still a single coil. i'd kind of like to find something close to a Jerry tone or John Mayor in Dead and Company vibe through the pickups, obviously my pedals and amp will have something to do with it as well, but i'd like to try and get closer with my pickup choices.. I play an eclectic style, groovy rock, some progressive blues, a little funk and hints of country/bluegrass with low gain and transparent overdrive, some delay, reverb, use of envelope filter and octave pedal. What do you guys think?
  22. Fender has never released any production figures for the JagStang. We do know there were no left handed models produced during the "reissue" period from 2003-2006.
  23. How many lefty jagstangs are there? By year?
  24. its a squier, the original screwed in.....just making sure that it is suppose to have some wiggle room, thanks for the reply
  25. Did the Original one not rock back and worth ? They are suppose to If you like the original better. you can try to just swapping the saddles and use original?
  26. Thanks for the support, you guys are awesome!
  27. Hello, managed to get my mitts on a staytrem bridge. Question, is there suppose to be a generous amount of wiggle room when I drop it in the posts? Is that what they mean by a rocker? Thanks in advanced. Jeff
  28. Hello there I own a CIJ Fender Jaguar. Lately, fret noise has been impossible to sort out, particularly on the 10th fret. I've raised action but I have to raise it stupidly high to make it go away. I check the neck relief and it looks pretty normal. Mind you, I have the stock bridge. I got this guitar 2 years ago and never really bother to change it. I did add a buzz top to prevent the strings from jumping but the 'sitar' like tones still persist so I'm guessing that upgrade was only delaying the inevitable - changing the damn bridge. My question is, apart from dealing with weird sitar like tones and strings jumping about, how good is the mastery bridge to deal with potential buzz noises ? The frets feel and look almost brand new - mind you, the previous owner bought the guitar back in 1996, played it for a short time and then stored it in his attic ! When I got the guitar, it felt almost brand new. So, how good is the mastery bridge in potentially addressing this problem ? Thank you so much ! Ricardo
  29. I have a ‘67 Mustang and want to know how to move the spring on the post down to the lower second notch to increase string tension to stay in tune. Some one said needle nose pliers and a small flathead screw driver. More detail on that method or any other ideas on how to move the spring is apprcated.
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