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Everything posted by Rook

  1. I never did find a complete schematic for Switch 1: Neck - Both - Bridge I already have this worked out. Switch 2: Series - Off - Parallel (or a working diagram for split - series - parallel) With a push pull for phase. I managed to work something out but not all the options work? The coil split I had on there for a month or so was worthless to me. I prefer the thin out of phase sound to the split coil, but never seemed to get it back. Could I just put the single coil out of phase rather than trying that with the humbucker or does it matter? The sound quality isn't great either, but I think that has to do with me grounding it through the switches rather than just grounding the switches. You think? If anyone has schematics for a similar set up or alternative switching options I'd love to see them.
  2. I grew up listening to Nirvana but I had no clue the JS existed until I was shopping around for a guitar in a huge listing book. Oh cool, Kurt designed it. Not my reason for buying it though. I actually bought My JS because everyone you talk to calls it a #### guitar with #### everything. Very few people play mustangs or Jags in my area and the minute you mention the JS they laugh at your ass - Until they play one that has been modded extensively. So I guess I got it because It's irregular and uncommon compared to all the Teles and Strats. My first guitar was a Tele by the way. JS, as we all know, is an ugly duckling and the result of a low quality rush to market to capitalize on Kurds death. I love the JS for that reason - despite and for its flaws and the fact that many of them can be modded away. It'll never be perfect and that's just part of the charm. The neck is amazing. The thick body tele thing always appealed to me. The fact that Kurt designed it made no difference to me.
  3. neck-both-bridge // Split-series-Parallel is the goal. oop can come later. I'd rather not install other toggle switches on the guitar, just use the switches already there. Like what Icy did I assume. Can't find a diagram for the switch, though. Tried the one by mad mike (viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15994&p=298703&hilit=series+parallel+split). Didn't work out. Double checked it and unless I'm missing something stupid, it doesnt work. Split and series sound exactly the same and come up with the same 8 ohms, and parallel comes up with the 4 ohms that the SD site says a split should give you. I'll triple check it tomorrow, so apologies ahead of time if I'm just dim enough to wire it incorrectly. It was kind of a quick going over. Whatever that file icy linked relating to switching it is no longer up. I could probably think this through on my own but I'd rather just have a schematic. So is there one? Thanks!
  4. Well I tend to play out of phase a lot simply because I like those characteristics when distorted more than with one or both pickups on. I'm really interested in rewiring my js for more tonal options and better performance in general. I could probably go without a schematic but I'd rather have one because Its been a while since I've wired for all these mods. A couple of years ago I built a guitar from scratch and wound up selling it to a friend. I put my all into that guitar and learned a lot of stuff working on it. You name it, that guitar had it. I had so many switches on that thing that it looked ridiculous, but I loved how versatile it was and id like to bring some of that versatility to my js.
  5. 473k is 47000pf. k is a tolerance code for +/- 10% (which is basically how accurate the value is) 473k would also be known as 0.047uF +/- 10% which should be more familiar. I had to learn all this junk modding and wiring my old guitar and pedals. Circuit bending was soon to follow... I hate to say that I spend more time modding my gear than I do playing with it. I loved my DS-1 before and after the mod. I'm considering buying an original one again now though because I've forgotten how it sounded and therefore why I loved it in the first place - Aside from price.
  6. I wouldn't mind doing something like that. Is there a schematic somewhere? Also, what is the advantage of the change to 500k pots? I've read about it somewhere but I've forgotten now. Fatter or thinner?
  7. I try to stick to Polystyrene caps whenever I can. Ceramics get more noise, I think. When I was modding my DS-1 I went through a load of cap comparisons and orange drops are pretty standard as far as reliability and sound quality go. There are others out there though. http://www.diyguitarist.com/Misc/Capaci ... dGuide.htm A general guide from my favorites. Guess you may have seen it already.
  8. Can't believe I didn't see that one As for the lube used in the mad mike method... I don't know whether I have any type of grease on hand. I'll take a look. Do you think gun oil would work? Thats the only utility oil I really have on hand. I've never heard of the type of gun oil I use ruining finishes because its used specifically for maintaining my grandfathers hand me down WWII Enfield - bolt, wood, all. Not sure how long it'll last though. What has everyone else used? I'm not opposed to locking the trem down but I have used it in the past and I'd rather not kill anything useful. I'll try this before I lock it down. Ahahah... Alternative use for js tremolo: Improve your grip strength - better than your average grip exerciser Update: Okay, I gave up on the oil. It ran and I know it wouldn't last at all. I pulled my grandpas gun cleaning kit out of the closet. This thing is old. We're talking 50 years or so. I dug around in it and found two lubricants: Gunslick - Anhydrous Graphitic And I did a search on it: Any friction points, including but not limited to trigger mechanisms, slide rails, sear pivots, magazine releases, etc. It is a graphite grease, very slick and very good. Graphite is an excellent dry lubricant, and the grease base is to make it stick where you put it. This stuff is ugly as sin. Looks like burnt motor oil almost. Lubriplate Rifle Grease Guess it's just an average grease? Least it's kind of clean looking. So I guess I'll use that Gunslick. Think I could use it on the nut as well? I'll try it. Update Again: And wow. The MM Method works wonders. Tuned it, stretched it, tuned it, used the trem, expected it to be #### out of tune. Still perfect. Also taped the bridge post as suggested in another topic. Thanks again for all the advice. Heres to hoping it lasts.
  9. No need for more, thanks. That was exactly what I needed. I really love the neck but the tuning was driving me mad. Thanks again for clearing that up.
  10. My Jagstang came all Kurted up with a texas special and a JB. The guy who put them in clearly couldn't solder though, because the first day I had it it sounded fine. Plugged it in the next day and wtf the same settings sounded totally different. Went away for a week and came back to my Jagstang to find that the bridge pup had stopped working altogether. Opened it up and it turned out to be crappy joint. This bare wire he used as the diagonal on the switch (? going by memory ?) had flopped loose. Soldered it back myself using the diagram on this site. Funnily enough, I preferred the second sound I got out of that loose wire over the one I get now that its all wired correctly. I'm not interested enough to poke around to try to get that sound back though. That aside, I don't know. Check for a frayed wire end to see if its getting a bad connection. Thats all I have. Paint me ignorant.
  11. Much appreciated. I'm obviously new here but I've been lurking for a year or so. I keep coming back because this forum can be insightful and damn funny at times. I just did a quick search for bolt and lock. What? Do you mean screw it down as on the Davec setup topic or is there some other method I'm missing? Apologies if I missed something. Just confused by "using two bolts to lock it down"
  12. I've owned my CIJ Jagstang for about three years and, call me oblivious but, I've never noticed that the bridge was flipped - intonation screws facing the neck. It even looks like someone took the time to adjust the height properly. I've searched the forum and found that bit about someone in a similar situation in the Davec setup topic, but other than whats mentioned there... Does it really matter that its flipped? I've checked the intonation and it wasn't horrible to begin with, so i fiddled with it and got it just right. Very minimal buzz. Seems alright I guess. Or am I just confused? In the past I typically played a strat, so I have no clue. I've come to appreciate the Jagstang and I've been trying to treat it a little better lately, but I can't get over the tuning issues. Lock it or screw it down?
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