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Everything posted by Auriemma

  1. $1500 would be a good price. The cheapest vintage I have seen is $1800 all the way up to $3200.
  2. My first electric was a (circa 1971) Toyota hollow body, cherry sunburst, plain top. I believe it was a Johnny A Gibson Japanese copy. It looked like this one only with traditional 'f' holes and a knockoff Bigby style tailpiece. My dad traded it in 7 years after the electrics failed during a school concert. I have never seen anything like it since.
  3. $2250 USD with just over 2 hours left. Thats about right just for the guitar alone.
  4. Have you guys see this one? http://www.elixirstrings.com/whatsnew/t ... stang.html
  5. I figured that someone here might be interested. (No... I am not the seller and have no vested interest in this guitar)... Just an FYI. http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/msg/1068994794.html
  6. I have a decent read on the value. I know that cosmetic repairs only decrease the value. All the dings and dents were before I owned her. IMHO, her first 10 years prior to me, were rougher than her last 30 combined with me. Its about her appeal to me. I just see all these guitars all shined up and flawless (my Strat is like that). Its just me. I'll get over the fact she will never be flawless. I had given serious thought on trading her for a Gibson Les Paul Std, Trad or Custom. My wife is totally against it. She told me to go play it a while and think about it. I went and played all my guitars. She was right. The Mustang plays better and easier than all my others. Hell, my Bradley even beat my Strat for ease of play. And my Strat is very easy on the fingers. She just need some TLC. I am scraping the funds together to get her a fret leveling (first in 40 years) and full setup. A good non-abrasive wax job should help the finish.
  7. The old girl (69 Mustang Comp) is looking dull and I don't know about vintage original finishes. Is it possible to buff out scratches in a vintage paint job using McGuiers X Scratch Remover? There are some battle scars too. Would filling them with Cyano, sanding and polishing be a bad idea too? Or would either of these ruin her?
  8. FWIW: I was at Barnes & Noble this weekend looking for a good Guitar maintenance book (no luck, back to the guitar shop). But I did find a 2009 Guitar Appraisal book. 1969 Fender Mustang Competion poor condition: $1900 excellent condition: $2100 Thats why Mustangs are going for $1500 on eBay.
  9. Yes, they WERE made as entry/student level guitars, but that is not what they are now. Now they are vintage musical instruments. That is what you are paying for. If vintage doesn't matter, then buy a reissue, imported copy, or build your own. But $1800 and up is the going price for a vintage Mustang Comp. in decent condition. I know mine will not go cheap. ------------------------------------------------- eBay is just fine... as long as the buyer knows what he is buying. If the seller is overpriced, no one buys. If the seller is under priced, everyone bids and its a free-for all. If the seller mis-represents or poorly describes what they are selling... Buyer Beware. But there are diamonds among the rubble. Example: Last year, I bought a 1995 Ovation 1751 Balladeer 12-string off of eBay. The pics showed a broken string and a chip in the top, with a gig bag. It was stated the electronics did not work. I won the bidding, got it for $163, shipped. What I found when I looked it over after receiving it: - neck was straight (good) - frets had very little wear (good) - the picture made the chip look much bigger than it was. (great) - headstock, fretboard, saddle and neck that were extremely dried out. (very bad) - battery compartment had a leaking battery still in it. (very bad) - battery contacts were only slightly corroded (not as bad as it could have been) - trim ring around the sound hole was detached (bad) - electronics were covered in dust and did not work (bad) I thought I had been hosed. My wife said "You spent your money on THAT?" Not good if you are married and your wife hates eBay. But, I gave it some 5 hours worth of TLC: ~ buffed the frets ~ oiled all the unfinished woods (headstock, neck, fretboard, and saddle... multiple times) ~ repaired the chip (filled it in with cyano acrylate (superglue), sand and polish) ~ reattached the trim ring ~ tightened all the tuners ~ cleaned the battery contacts ~ blew the dust out of the preamp controls ~ complete buff and polish ~ new battery (the preamp works) ~ new strings Now she is almost perfect and worth far more than I paid. Afterward, the seller contacted me and asked if i was satisfied with my purchase. I told him all of the issues above. He wanted to refund some of my money. I declined because I knew I made out. You can get a deal on eBay. But YOU have to know what you are looking for and what it is worth.
  10. Just looked at this one... Reaper. http://www.reaper.fm
  11. I notice the difference between them when I switch off, but thats what makes each one unique to me. Its not just sound. Love'em all, play'em all!
  12. Its hard to compare an original to a reissue. The only thing thats the same is the basic shape. All the rest: how it was made (by hand vs. CNC, one at a time vs. mass produced), fit and finish, materials, electronics, pickups, even the wiring harness, etc... all are vastly different. Alot can change in 40 years. That being said, I'll STILL take an original... anything else is just a copy.
  13. Here is a pic of the two for comparison: Its not that much smaller in overall size. But as you can see the fretboard on the Mustang is much more compact.
  14. grunge... apology accepted. I'll chalk it up to youthful exuberance. I'm 44, so yes... I'm old (but not dead yet). I did mean OVER the tail piece (cigar tube). And you guys are right. It would make the strings nearly clear the saddle. When bought the Mustang, my friend had it strung straight through the tail piece, not back and under. He wondered why the Trem bar hardly worked. Go figure. I do know where I have seen something similar, but it was on a Les Paul. Most are strung straight through, but I have seen them strung back and over. Still don't know why you would.
  15. The only stupid question is the one not asked. grunge... a little respect for your fellow board members would be nice.
  16. Retarted? No, I think not. I ask because I have seen guitars strung both ways, I was curious as to why.
  17. When stringing a Mustang, do you go over or under?
  18. And I just added this to my collection: 2007 Ovation 1868T Elite-T Solid Spruce top Maple Neck Ebony Fingerboard, Nut, and Saddle OP-Pro Preamp Made in the USA!
  19. I don't know why I feel offended when my Mustang is called a "student" guitar. It feels, sounds, and plays as good or better than many out there. That being said.. Mustang Comps Rule! (can I still say it that way at 44?) You know how I voted!
  20. Foxy, Sorry, I forgot you were down under. My bad.
  21. 5 hints where to look: http://www.gbase.com http://www.ebay.com http://www.craigslist.org your local guitar shops your local classifieds Happy hunting... and you won't be disappointed.
  22. Its funny, I have had this guitar for 27 years and no one was EVER interested in it. I come here and everyone wants it. Side note: most of you are about the same age I was when I bought it (~17).
  23. I take your comments as a compliment. She has her dings, chips, scratches (all from the previous owner) but after all these years she is a beauty and plays great. I wouldn't trade her for anything.
  24. My turn: '69 Mustang Comp, '77 Bradley LPC, '91 Strat Plus (USA), '95 Ovation Celebrity CC257 '95 Ovation 1751 Balladeer 12-string Some other toys (most are antiques): Peavey Studio Pro 110, Tascam MP3 Guitar Trainer, Rockman Soloist, Ibanez Mostortion, EH Deluxe Electric Mistress Flanger, EH Bad Stone Phase Shifter DOD TR3R Sampler-Delay/Stereo Chorus/Distortion
  25. Funny, thats how much I paid for it 20+ years ago. And to answer the question: Thanks, but no thanks.
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