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GaryM

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GaryM last won the day on April 25 2016

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About GaryM

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  1. I've followed all this for months on TGP and FSB. The three Cool Cat Pedals mentioned are rough copies of the Timmy, Fulltone OCD and Frantone Peach Fuzz. Specifically, they are poor sounding copies but the frugal guitarist should enjoy them. They are true bypass. I have modified them for customers with better coupling capacitors yielding significant sonic improvement. This "Steve from Danelectro" is a phantom poster on the various forums. He hasn't answered any question or replies that I have seen. I don't think Danelectro is going to change their designs and they are selling like hotcakes.
  2. Thanks for the info, Mad-Mike. I noticed that my e1 string touches the back of the bridge. Could this be a contributor to the bridge not returning to neutral after being pivoted during vibrato use?
  3. I'll lube 'er up like mcconnachiea suggested and report back. Let me think..... No way!
  4. Well, I don't think it's a tuner because all 6 strings go sharp or flat equally. It seems like the bridge is not returning to "neutral" after a little wrist vibrato. I had to do a guitar swap to finish our set today.
  5. 2 months old. I bought a new '65 reissue. The spring tension is very high and a bit stiff.
  6. Bump I gigged with my new Mustang for the first time last night. Loved the tone but hated the fact that my tuning went out 4 to 8 cents whenever I added a little vibrato in a song. It was just adding a little warble to sustained clean chords but that was enough. By the end of a song, I had to retune. I'm not using the vibrato arm, just rocking the bridge a little with my right wrist. What is everyone doing to counter this? Thanks! Gary
  7. IMHO, the biggest contributor is the 24" scale length. Next, you need a bolt on maple neck with rosewood board. (Never underestimate the tone contributed by a guitar's neck!) Light weight tuners will yield less sustain, like a Mustang. Use under-wound alnico pickups. That will get you 90% of the way there. Body shape will not have as much impact as body wood. For a low cost Franken-stang, you could start with one of the SX 24" scale Strat-o-clones from Rondo Music. Good luck! Gary
  8. With the stock circuit, you will hear a loss of highs / treble / clarity as you lower the volume with the volume control. Moving the tone cap circuit the the wiper of the volume pot minimizes the high frequency roll off. Gary
  9. I desoldered my tone cap and installed a pair of clip leads in its place. With the leads hanging out of the guitar, I tested a bunch of capacitors this afternoon. Ended up using an old .033mfd Sprague Bumblebee and doing the 50's wiring mod. The guitar's tone really came alive. The wiring mod gave me lots more top end chime and the cap change delivered sweet squawkiness on zero. Lots of usable tones in between. Much better jazz tones using the neck PUP now. If anyone is interested, here is the tone circuit wiring mod from the LPF. Adapt it to your Fender and say goodbye to mud when turning do
  10. Got a nice email from Kurt at Rondo yesterday. He says that a standard Strat pickguard will not fit these guitars. So much for putting a stock pearl or tortoise PG on these. You could order a custom PG from Warmoth.
  11. Yes and you could also have mention Q factor but regardless, I'm sticking with the aforementioned .047uF/47nf value. I'm wondering what the original Mustangs form the '60's used and also everyone's current favorite cap type.
  12. Tell me about the tone capacitors in your Mustangs. What type of cap do you prefer? Does anyone have photos of old Mustangs showing the type of capacitors used? I'm getting ready to replace the stock radial mylar .047mfd/47nf cap in my reissue Mustang and want suggestions. You know, ceramic vs PIO vs metalized, etc. Below are what I have to choose from. Thanks! Gary
  13. Don't worry. It's not an Epiphone Les Paul.
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