Earth

Although similar they are very different effects in my opinion. I like flangers better. I like the old BOSS flangers from Japan/the 80's. Had one once, it was great.

Nah, I hate doing tab and I really don't play other peoples music all that much anyways. All EARTH is simple, very few chords and notes to work out and its all repetitive.

They are for solid shaft pots BTW but can be used on split shaft if you align the tightening screw into the split, not against the shaft itself which will only cause it to bend. Other knobs that look cool on Mustangs and Jaguars are SG Reflector knobs. They are only for split shaft.

I do it on guitar necks as thick as Les Paul customs, vintage mustangs, they are .900" at 1st fret. So I dunno how big that makes my hands. Japanese Jags are around .830" and american around .850". The 61 SG is .800". My thinest neck is .767" and thickest .900". So long as it has big frets I dont care much but do kinda prefer thinner like around .800"-.850"

Buy from GPR and wire it yourself, probably cheaper.

Here are white: link And here are cream, which look far better than white as the white ones are too damn white: link 80 cents each. And yes, they are identical to Mustang/jaguar knobs.

Its common (not among fender players though) but its not filed, its sanded, and mostly done by professional Luthiers. Which I advise in this case. You do it yourself you can risk fvcking it right up. Guitar teachers (of which I've never been to one ) will say "you shouldn't have your thumb over it" anyways. But I'm guilty of this all the time myself, I cant get out of it and really dont care.

T5 M8 B5 is what I use on a twin reverb then on my Metal Muff I have the mids at 0. Its an active EQ whih either adds or decrees. It goes -5 or +5. Or on a BMP I have the mids at about 1 oclock or bypassed altogether. Scooped mids can be used obviously but isn't needed even in metal. Take Slayer for instance, they boost the mids not scoop them. Kerry King's EQ looks like a upside down smile.

Yeah ya a see from your pics there's not gonna be any problem on a mustang with this one.

Photobucket, get a free account then its your own private album. All I see with this TOM on Jags/JMs is problems. It may work on mustangs due to the shorter and sharper break angle (like on Gibsons you get away with it not a problem) but its only gonna be problems on Jags/JMs IMO. I feel this way because I have tried non filed TOMs on Jags/JMs and the E-A strings pop of continually. Playing style comes into play also. The E even pops out of mustang saddles on Jags/JMs for me.Hence, I use modified Nashvilles.

Using the Fender TOM presents a problem rather than convenience. You always need to file the slots deeper on a Gotoh/Gibson TOM not only to match the radius but also (and most importantly) to get the strings to not pop out. If you just use a TOM with shallow slots on a Jag, JM (Jag/JM especially) and even a Mustang strings are going to pop out all over the place. By the time you have filed the 1,2,5,6 slots(3,4 need only minor filing)deep enough to take the TOM from 12" to roughly 7.25" they are deep enough so the strings will NEVER pop out. Thus it is actually better to use a Gotoh/Gibson TOM and put 30 minutes worth of work into it to get it right as if you just use the Fender TOM (like on a Jag/JM) it is actually defeating the purpose of using one entirely! I've been playing Jags/Jazzmasters for over 16 years and I worked out every quirk they have many years ago.

And here you go:

5 years too late dude!

I drew a diagram for this years ago, let me find it and I'll post it for you.

Upper horn controls control th eneck pickup only. Allother controlls and bridge pickup is off then. Here, this will explain it easy, its for a jaguar but its the same principle between rhythm and lead circuits: link