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Everything posted by Earth

  1. Although similar they are very different effects in my opinion. I like flangers better. I like the old BOSS flangers from Japan/the 80's. Had one once, it was great.
  2. Nah, I hate doing tab and I really don't play other peoples music all that much anyways. All EARTH is simple, very few chords and notes to work out and its all repetitive.
  3. They are for solid shaft pots BTW but can be used on split shaft if you align the tightening screw into the split, not against the shaft itself which will only cause it to bend. Other knobs that look cool on Mustangs and Jaguars are SG Reflector knobs. They are only for split shaft.
  4. I do it on guitar necks as thick as Les Paul customs, vintage mustangs, they are .900" at 1st fret. So I dunno how big that makes my hands. Japanese Jags are around .830" and american around .850". The 61 SG is .800". My thinest neck is .767" and thickest .900". So long as it has big frets I dont care much but do kinda prefer thinner like around .800"-.850"
  5. Buy from GPR and wire it yourself, probably cheaper.
  6. Here are white: link And here are cream, which look far better than white as the white ones are too damn white: link 80 cents each. And yes, they are identical to Mustang/jaguar knobs.
  7. Its common (not among fender players though) but its not filed, its sanded, and mostly done by professional Luthiers. Which I advise in this case. You do it yourself you can risk fvcking it right up. Guitar teachers (of which I've never been to one ) will say "you shouldn't have your thumb over it" anyways. But I'm guilty of this all the time myself, I cant get out of it and really dont care.
  8. T5 M8 B5 is what I use on a twin reverb then on my Metal Muff I have the mids at 0. Its an active EQ whih either adds or decrees. It goes -5 or +5. Or on a BMP I have the mids at about 1 oclock or bypassed altogether. Scooped mids can be used obviously but isn't needed even in metal. Take Slayer for instance, they boost the mids not scoop them. Kerry King's EQ looks like a upside down smile.
  9. Yeah ya a see from your pics there's not gonna be any problem on a mustang with this one.
  10. Photobucket, get a free account then its your own private album. All I see with this TOM on Jags/JMs is problems. It may work on mustangs due to the shorter and sharper break angle (like on Gibsons you get away with it not a problem) but its only gonna be problems on Jags/JMs IMO. I feel this way because I have tried non filed TOMs on Jags/JMs and the E-A strings pop of continually. Playing style comes into play also. The E even pops out of mustang saddles on Jags/JMs for me.Hence, I use modified Nashvilles.
  11. Using the Fender TOM presents a problem rather than convenience. You always need to file the slots deeper on a Gotoh/Gibson TOM not only to match the radius but also (and most importantly) to get the strings to not pop out. If you just use a TOM with shallow slots on a Jag, JM (Jag/JM especially) and even a Mustang strings are going to pop out all over the place. By the time you have filed the 1,2,5,6 slots(3,4 need only minor filing)deep enough to take the TOM from 12" to roughly 7.25" they are deep enough so the strings will NEVER pop out. Thus it is actually better to use a Gotoh/Gibson TOM and put 30 minutes worth of work into it to get it right as if you just use the Fender TOM (like on a Jag/JM) it is actually defeating the purpose of using one entirely! I've been playing Jags/Jazzmasters for over 16 years and I worked out every quirk they have many years ago.
  12. I drew a diagram for this years ago, let me find it and I'll post it for you.
  13. Upper horn controls control th eneck pickup only. Allother controlls and bridge pickup is off then. Here, this will explain it easy, its for a jaguar but its the same principle between rhythm and lead circuits: link
  14. It should screw in like a regular screw. Not tight/not loose. It should only tighten once it hits the arm.
  15. Get a photobucket account, then you can always find and manage your photos. I only use photobucket, its the best IMO./
  16. As far as American vs Japanese goes, there really is no black and white comparison as it depends on the guitar and Japan puts out guitars that blow away a lot of American guitars. Like ESP Eclipse 1 CTM full thickness' for example (not available in north America), they are a far superior guitar than a Gibson les paul custom IMO. ESP makes a lot of very high end guitars and its irrelevant that they are a Japanese company. I find Japanese guitars more consistent (flawless in every way) as the Japanese (generalization) have a different mentality than westerners and have a very strong work ethic, it dates back to the Samurai and is still very evident in todays society. I have never known any worker with more respect and pride than a Japanese individual.
  17. You'll be even luckier if you do it this way! Especially if you and the bass player do it when recording! BTW, every guitarist in the band should use the same exact tuner, especially when recording.
  18. On my Gibson the pickup plate is basically touching the pickguard. But the HB is no where near the strings as pickups close the the strings cause buzz and unwanted distortion. The only pickups that should be almost touching strings are EMGs.
  19. These vibratos have a steep learning curve. All I can suggest is keep at it and read the article again. They really are very basic to set up and maintain.
  20. Nope, its bullsh!t! Who ever said this have never seen a Gibson or a PRS finish! OR a Japanese finish like on an ESP! MIMs are below Japanese and American guitars in terms of quality of parts and workmanship, this is the general consensus and no one really goes against it as its true IMO. They are all sprayed in booths anyways so its not like you're outside spraying chemicals all over the place.
  21. its so you can split the coils, that is why there are actually four (really 5 as one is ground for the HB base plate) wires on most modern pickups.
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