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Everything posted by Earth

  1. This will give you a feel for it all, its really very basic circuitry. Interactive Jaguar
  2. ONLY VINTAGE and GENUINE FENDER JAPANESE Mustang bridges DONT have saddles with gaps between them, all other after market variations do and cause problems of saddle movement etc. I love TOMS, I have them on my Jaguar and Mustang, they are great and have been using them for years. They work really well with the Jaguar trem too. I dont know about the mustang trem cause I dont use it but I assume they would cause a few tuning problems cause of the tight break angle of the strings on a mustang. You still need to file the saddles of a TOM cause the grooves are barely a center mark, not what I'd call a groove at all plus when you file grooves in the TOM you can match the 7.25 radius of jaguars/Mustangs easily and by the time/depth you match the radius your strings will never pop out,....its not that deep BTW to match the 7.25 radius. It seems like it would be but its not. And I would be filing the TOM saddles as deep as I do regardles of the radius issue to keep them in place. If you don't file the TOM saddles your strings will move all over the place worse than the stock Jaguar bridge.
  3. From time to time I see your jagstang online and its great! I have been wanting to build something kinda similar for years but with a mustang body instead. I notice you're an Ozzie too, who mad e the body for you? Could you PM me his contact details please?
  4. Just a tip:If you want to use a TOM (or not) on it you don't need to turn the tremolo piece around and it doesn't sound any different either way, just adjust it( raise it) so its vertical when you are tuned to your tuning(having the trem piece vertical is exactly how it was intended to be set up BTW) . This still gives enough tension over the bridge and is quite stable. You need to shim the neck a tiny bit to use TOMs. the inner end slightly more so then the outer...of the neck pocket. Its an adjust and feel process that usually requires taking the neck off at least twice to get it right. Then you make the fine action adjustments on the TOM itself with the height adjustment screws once you have the neck profile right. To raise the tremolo piece insert the correct size allen key into the two little holes on the top of it. I used to have mine pointing towards the butt of the guitar and low so the low E would rest on the chrome plate, this only allows tremolo movement down pitch. The first way I mention,although allows pitch to be either raised or lowerd seems to be more stable, and this is how I have my mustang set up....like a hardtail but the trem is free to move if I wanted it to. I find this method more stable than the second method I mentioned because if the trem does get bumped you can always move it back and forth to get back in perfect tune, the second method doesn't allow this. The TOM to buy is the Gotoh Nashville type. Also, A TOM really changes the sound of Mustangs/Jagstangs/Jaguars, you don't realize how much until you actually do it and for those of you after "that cobain sound" a TOM is a must IMO and IME.
  5. The Neck and Body on Jap jaguars (and jazzmasters) is perfect, perfectly built too. Its just everything else on it that is complete junk. Tuners excepted as they are what Fender Corona use anyways, they are Gotoh's and are indeed very good quality tuners.
  6. You have to have 25k pots for active EMGs Or 100k, saw it on some EMG page. BTW, I forgot all about that anyways until you mentioned it.
  7. You CAN fit a switch/switch/toggle in there but it is a tight fit. I done it to mine once, I had the thin switch and phasing and a 3 way pup selector(toggle). You just drill out in the center of the end slide switch hole. Screw it to a bit of wood,center the drill in the wood in the center of the slide switch hole then drill. It looks kinda like this, but Kim Gordons doesn have the switches in: It is a VERY tight fit though and you will want the switchcraft "shorty" switch from GPR for this.
  8. For humbuckers, 500k audio sound best to me( and the majority of others too). Also use a 47nF cap, or in microfarads thats .047uF (uF = Microfarads and nF = Nanofarads) For routing templates, there's some at stewmac for both the body and pickguard. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Templ ... lates.html http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Templ ... lates.html
  9. Nah, two very different pups. The Super is 14k the PAF is 8k. different pole pieces, different sounds. The PAF was designed by seth lover in the 50's, the Super by Larry DiMarzio in the 70's IIRC,not sure about the date TBH. The super is gutsy, whereas the PAF is mellower, both are nice and my favorite pups as far as humbuckers go.
  10. There's nothing actually wrong with the stock switches, they just have big ugly ass screws to hold them on is all. I can't see them failing, they are pretty well built. Of course if you change the 4 switches for switchcraft,which have counter sunk screws, you should change the chrome as well as it accommodates counter sunk screws better than the Jap chrome because its made for countersunk screws. Countersunk screws will work with the stock chrome though. And if you change the chrome you will need to change the roller pot bracket to AVRI as well. I would change the pots the 500K Audio if you are wanting Quarter Pounders as 1Meg is pretty bright on a high output pickup. Alpha pots are just as good as CTS and almost a 5th of the price. you can get them at http://www.smallbearelec.com/StoreFront.bok You'd want 24mm single gang Audio pots, then choose the value in the drop down menu. (500k) And If you change the pots to solid shaft pots you'll need to change the knobs, the above website has them too, the large MXR ones are identical to AVRI Jaguar knobs except they have a flat head set screw whereas AVRI have a hex key set screw. Once you start modding CIJ's you never stop because there's so much cheap looking crap on them you just want to replace it all. In the end it would have been cheaper to buy a second hand AVRI but I understand people don't always have ALL of the money in the one hit. I have a CIJ Jaguar, the only thing CIJ is the wood, everything else has been replaced with American parts. I could have just bought an AVRI secondhand but it just didn't turn out that way. Plus I like poly necks anyways. If you have any specific other questions just PM me and I'll help you out, I've come to know a #### load about Jaguars, Jazzmasters, Jagstangs, DUosonics and Mustangs over the years.
  11. DiMarzio super distortions, both full size and single coil sized. Wired in series for full output, no split/parallel etc. PAFS are my second favorite both in the neck and bridge.
  12. A clean 85 watts into either 2x12's or 4x12's at 4 ohms is what I use and Like. I hate low watt amps.
  13. You will only have to widen the wound string spacings very slightly on the nut, not deepen them.
  14. Stock value is 3.3nF but if you want less cut try 5nF and up to about 8nF or if you want more cut try 1nF. 3.3nF = .003uF
  15. There's a ton of minor differences and I've spent a bit of money on Americanizing my CIj Jaguar. The only thing left thats japanese is the wood. Given the chance to do it over, I would just buy AVRI. I'll never buy another Jap Jaguar...Mustangs,sure, they are fine and are very close to an original (I have a 1966 mustang) and can be fixed up for not too much $$$.
  16. You can buy them here: http://www.huort-ch.com/lang_eng/en_hardware.htm
  17. The best thing you can do to Jap chrome is replace it with AVRI chrome IMO! As for keeping it shiny, I just use a dry rag. Its much nicer looking. You will have to file the pickguard in a couple of spots to make it fit but its only minor.
  18. Older jaguars have Ping tuners but newer ones have Gotoh tuners, exactly the same ones as US jaguars have. You could install Gotoh vintage style tuners from www.guitarpartsresource.com/ These are what Fender USA use on vintage reissue guitars,
  19. Easy, compare the chrome(US chrome is way nicer looking and Jap chrome looks cheap), the screws on the chrome, the screws on the pickups, the pickup covers, the decal, the pickguard, the threads on the bridge saddles, the bridge itself, the four switches are slightly taller on Jap jaguars, the knobs have no set screw(only visible in some online pics at the right angle), the trem arm and the trem arm collet hole, the tremarm collet, and the "fender" on the trem, serial number location, the dots on the side of the neck and you will notice minor differences in all these things. (I think I listed everything) They are only minor differences but they all add up to quite a bit of $$$$ if you want it to look 99% like (1% unless you change the decal,serial number decal,finish and side dots)and sound 100% an AVRI Jaguar. Hence why Jap jags are cheaper. As a side note, the tuners that US and Jap jaguars/jazzmasters use are 100% identical, they are Gotoh "kluson" style vintage tuners. And Jap Jaguars have a thin poly finish(well mines very thin) and US jaguars have a thin poly finish with nitro over the top, both are alder. Older MIJ's are not alder.
  20. For single coil size HB's I like rails, like the DiMarzio DP218 for example, and for full size HB's I like poles like the DiMarzio DP100. It really makes no difference to me sonically though. Its purely aesthetics.
  21. Its completely pedal dependent and will vary quite a bit. You can use a battery up in a digital delay pedal in two hours. Or like in my Woolly Mammoth,it still reads over 9.4 volts and its been in there for 3 years. Generally batteries last longer in analog effects, they also last longer in fuzz and distortion than in modulation. I buy boxes of batteries, they come in 20 packs for about 10 bucks, they aren't alkaline but last ages in my analog pedals. I only use adapters on effects that require higher voltages.
  22. You cant swap them, they wont fit by a mile. If you want a jazzmaster style PG for your jaguar just draw up the shape you want and get one made. http://www.terrapinisland.com/beta09b/i ... 2=main.php
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