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Everything posted by Hundredxnails

  1. they reposted the floyd rose mustang. It's pretty slick looking.
  2. http://www.wdmusic.com/ I bought my the pickguard for my 66 mustang rebuild from them. They make pretty much every pickguard under the sun.
  3. I have smallish hands too, and have found that the Short scale, and neck radius of the Jazz, Jag, and Mustang family to be very playable. It took a little getting used to because of how noticably round the fretboard is, but I certainly enjoy it. The only con that I can think of, is how heavy my instrument is. I play on a 1966 Mustang, and it is noticably heavier than my 2000ish mim strat. I am not sure about the reissues, but I think they are lighter compared to the vintage. Oh, And I really do not like the tremolo system, but I just take out the arm and ignore it.
  4. Thanks guys! I am really satisfied with the results. The SD's are kind of grunty, but they are nice for single coils. I was considering putting a humbucker in the bridge and redoing the shielding for it. But carving out a vintage body would be sacrilidge. Oh and I was considering doing a sonic blue, or an off white if I repainted it. But I would lose all of the wonderful damage. This is the 2nd guitar rebuild I have done. I am no luthier by any mens. Just a guy with a screw driver, soldering iron, wood glue, and some dowel. But I have considered going to school to become a guitar tech. As it stands I am a better tech than a Player.
  5. I don't know if any of you remember, but a while i obtained a body from a 1966 Mustang and began a rebuild project. It is a hodgepodge of parts from 65-68, a reissue bridge, f-stamp neckplate, with electronics from 2009! Here is the parts list: 68 Neck 65 Tailpiece 66 Body 66 Control Plate Reissue Bridge f-stamp neckplate Gotoh Inline Tuners SD Antiquity II Factory Spec Fabricated wiring harness Reproduction pickguard - Mother of Bowlingball and pictures the 65 tailpiece, and reissue bridge Here is the headstock, I know, the decal is heavily worn, its 42 years old, and is showing its age. I ordered new decals and it should be on within the week. I did have a thread about the body damage a few months ago, Mostly highlighting the strap button damage. While I was able to repair the strap button issue, the body is still riddled with nicks, and scratches. Truth be told I like this, but i hate the blue the previous owner painted it. i may repaint it, but probably wont. here is a close up of some of the scratches that are just below the tail piece. Here is the total package! like i said, she is a hodgepodge, but it worked out. I didn't rebuild it to sell, this is going to be something i hold on to for a very long time. So what do you think? edit to fix picture links
  6. So wait... you have a p90 in the bridge position or are considering it? Because the way you have it worded here makes you sound like its already done... And if I am not mistaken you have to rout the body out to fit a p90 in the first place? And if so wouldn't it be easy to fit a hb in the p90 rout?
  7. http://fender.com/products/search.php?partno=0967700332 It looks like an interesting Acoustic-electric. I think what does it for me is the standard Tele pickup in the neck position. I cant imagine it sounds any different than the Deluxe Tele or Stratacoustics. The price tag is shying me away on it though...
  8. I thought that was just a different name for "neck through"? Touche Salesman
  9. to shift this conversation back to the original topic, the reason why gibsons (specifically the Les Pauls) are so expensive is that #1 its a neck through body. One solid piece of wood maybe with a vernier or a slab of rosewood for a fretboard. #2 Most gibson bodies (ESPECIALLY THE LES PAUL'S) have to be hand tooled. I dont know of too many machines that can make archtops like gibson does. so the labor costs are much much higher. 3. Gibson also prides itself on quality control. I have never seen a gibson out the factory feel as terrible as some fenders. Even Epiphones feel pretty good compared to Fenders budget brand, Squire. Don't get me wrong, I love fenders. But Tit for Tat, Gibsons tend to be of better quality out of the box, but lack the interchangeability that most fenders possess.
  10. this was the exact issue that i came across. The vintage models did not have the 1/4" counter-bore which makes replacement very limited. these are the originals http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 602_263622 and here are the remakes http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 602_263622 unfortunately they are the best fitting (in terms of screw placement) that I could find, You might be able to modify them, but god damn would that be a huge pain in the ass (if it even worked out!)
  11. what about the bottom? the dowel idea sounds like a good one so far. I was also considering using a wall anchor (zip it style) for it. What do you think about that?
  12. wait! I lied! i found some! they are fender replacements. but they are the new style complete with f stamp. http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/imag ... 22-100.jpg It looks like they listed them wrong (70s opposed to 60s) but they match up the design that your neck uses. Additional find: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 602_263622 they might match up and these are cheaper! you might want to check yours to see if they require 1/4" counterbore. just remove one to see.
  13. oh! well I'll be damned... My apologies! I thought the reissues were all gussied up with Kluson styled tuners. But maybe those are just the 69s. Unfortunately I was unable to find replacements for these types of tuners. Perhapse one of the other forum members can assist you.
  14. Those arent Reissue tuners... Those are vintage...
  15. do me a favor... Take a picture of it... I could have sworn they used the inline 7 screw "Vintage" tuners on reissues...
  16. Some time ago, I got a hold of a 1966 body in really rough shape. Mostly nicks and scratches and a weird brown paint in the pickup cavities, but hey, I got it for really cheap. Anyway I installed the neck, i have both a gotoh and a reissue standing by for installation once i get the pick-guard and electronics sorted out. Anyway, I knew the strap button over the neck was damaged (like the button was ripped out completely), but what I was wondering if i refilled the original hole and put the button where it originally was would it hold? Here are two pictures of it for reference The button on the bottom of the guitar was also damaged. It looked like some one either tried routing it out by about a quarter of an inch and at a slight angle backwards or dropped it right on the button. The original screw still fits, albeit very awkwardly. Any recommendations and advice is welcome! I have considered re-drilling new button locations, it would end up being the most painless solution, but I want to see what options I have. Thanks guys!
  17. those are the inline Klusons right? if so try these http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/ ... D=99170200 I am not too familiar with these but it you might like them. They seem a bit expensive though...
  18. This is my exact complaint. I did go out to their shop today actually. I was able to play around with one put in my guitar since they wouldn't let me use one of their in shop guitars. It was fun to play around with, and it was really stable too. It just was not as flexible as the other bridges. But I suppose if you add some where you normally have to remove from elsewhere. It was enjoyable to play on like a well loved vintage bridge, really easy to set up like a gotoh, and very stable. But for the price they were offering it for it was obviously not worth it.
  19. The guys from Sonic Youth swear by them, considering they are slightly heavier players than the guitar was originally geared towards I imagine this would hold up pretty well. But yeah, I will let you guys know. I think its a little out of my league price wise especially considering gotoh and replacement fender bridges are only $20-$40. Either way, these guys seem to know their stuff concerning these types of guitars.
  20. I was on another forum yesterday asking about bridge options for my mustang rebuild and was presented with the Mastery bridge. The cool thing about this is that it fits without any modification, and you can adjust the bridge radius! They run for about 160ish dependin on what one you need (vintage or reissue). I don't know if anyone on here has one, or have even heard about it but I figured it would be an interesting thing to share. At the very least I am going to run up to the manufacture some time this week and see one installed on one of their in house guitars. These fit mustangs, jaguars, jag stangs, and teles equiped witha bigsby.
  21. cobain used a number of mustangs. For the most part they were Sonic Blue, but he did have a lake placid blue, and a fiesta red. My personal favorite was his beater. It was a 60s sanded down body with a vinyl record for a pickguard.
  22. does the FAQ have the dimensions? Edit: also I had an idea. Warmoth necks will fit, but they wont be the vintage 7 1/4 radius. Instead of a vintage rebuild, I could go with a Cobain build, using a tun-o-matic (that has a 12 radius), and pair it with a 12 radius Warmoth neck. Shouldn't that work out, without any of the difficulty in palm muting? Or is that not how it works... (i had my strat professionally set up after I assembled everything, so I guess I am a phoney ) I would prefer to do a vintage rebuild, but if there are more readily available parts for alternative builds I suppose I could go with that, but again.. not my preference...
  23. Also, this just popped in my head a few moments. Wouldn't a Jaguar Neck fit just the same? I think my friends father has a parted out jaguar that he has been sitting on for a while I could make a deal with him... maybe... Thanks alot for you help!
  24. thank you! Do you happen to know of any trusted website specifically? Or even a few recommendations?
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