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Jeff Leites

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Everything posted by Jeff Leites

  1. Tommy at USA Custom Guitars http://www.usacustomguitars.com/ will make you a 24" scale neck, but he's probably more expensive than Warmoth. On the other hand he'll give you more options.
  2. How? I found a Fender logo on the web, like this one at http://www.flickr.com/photos/metropolis ... 696286963/ I copied it into a graphics program. where I added the letters for MUSTANG in a font close to Fender's, and I added the little lines to the letters. I found a font similar to the one for Offset Contour Body, and added that, and I added the patent numbers. I copied the resulting image into Microsoft Word (inserted it as a picture into a text box), because it's easy for me to manipulate the size there. BTW, the Offset Contour Body part is a seperate decal. When I got it looking
  3. This is the first time I've used them, so i don't know yet. I didn't know about them being rough on the strings. What's bugging me now is the trem. Just like my original Mustang. It's throwing the tuning off. It doesn't take much to throw it off by a half step Trem update: I just applied some Triflow to the nut... no change. Then I sprayed some into the bridge cups (the best I could without loosening the strings, which may not be a bad idea), and on the trem posts (where it pivots). Now I can move the trem in way more extreme positions then i'd ever actually use, and comes right back i
  4. I'm finally Done! Here are the specks again: Warmoth body, neck, pickguard, control plate, trem, modified bridge. Ebony fingerboard Graphite Nut Stainless Steel frets Schaller mini locking tuners Roller string tee Swamp Ash body w/clear finish Carvin twin rail humbucker pickups Slide switches for each pickup wired - Humbucker--Off--Singlecoil (wired so that the neck pickup tap is shorted to ground, and the bridge pickup tap is shorted to hot. That way the opposite humbucker coils are used in single pickup mode, creating humbucker action between the two pic
  5. I think when I last left you, I had refinished my old Mustang in red (I've changed the color several times over the decades), and replaced the old neck with the worn frets and fingerboard with a new neck: Well, that lasted a few days, until my wife convinced me that I should put the old neck back on, and just keep it as a vintage guitar. I thought as long as I was doing that, I might as well try to get it back close to the original color. So here it is. blue again with the old neck: Now, what to do with that new neck and bridge? I had put extra money into it for an ebony fingerboard
  6. You can make your own with a graphics program. Start by finding a good Fender logo on the web in the style you like. Copy it into your graphics program. You can clean it up there if you need to. Find a font close to the JAG-STANG part, and use the graphics program to position each letter. Print it on decal paper from a hobby shop. I spray a coat of urethane over the decal to waterproof it. Here are some Mustang labels I made for a replacement neck. I made two in case I screwed up the first one. I also cut the paper to the size I needed, so that the unused paper wouldn't pick up any crud r
  7. When I last left you, we were discussing if my 64 Mustang was originally Daphne Blue or Sonic Blue (we decided on Daphne Blue). I had refinished it in red in 1969, Black in the 80
  8. My skills are only at the assembly and wiring level, but I did work in the Fender building in Fullerton.... after Fender moved out, and my employer moved in
  9. I was going to volunteer but you mentioned that you had an apprentice.
  10. Aug - I found a store in Burbank that will custom mix lacquer. Only problem is, he won't mix less than one gallon. I also remembered one more crime in my "safe" section of North Hollywood. It was probably over 25 years ago, but I was awaken one morning to the sound of what i thought were fire crackers, but it turned out to be my next door neighbor having a shootout with some intruders that broke into his house. At least these things are rare in my neighborhood.
  11. I'd really like to do that. Where and when?
  12. thats the pedigree of most of north hollywood My corner of NH isn
  13. I think I'll do that. BTW, here's a pix I found on yet another site, that shows how the aging clear coat on a blue mustang turned it green: I wouldn't think that the control plate would prevent the paint from aging but what do I know? This same site say's that a Sonic Blue Mustang is really a faded Daphne Blue, but I don't think I buy that since we know Fender used both. I also can't believe how may times I forgot how to spell Daphne, and had to look it up, and this morning I noticed a note my wife has on a sticky at the bottom of my monitor with the phone number and e-mail address of som
  14. You're right. In fact, I was just reading an article about how the aging paint has caused a lot of confusion over what color an old Fender really was --> http://www.provide.net/~cfh/fenderc.html To add to my dilemma, The Sonic and Daphne blues seem to be different shades of the same color. The sonic in the shade may look like the Daphne in the sun. If I saw one or the other (both would be better) in person, I think I'd remember what it looked like before I changed it 40 years ago.
  15. OK, We don't know what year the Mustang is at the top of the screen, so you may be right.
  16. yes. Scholars everywhere agree. Interesting. Since posting, I've been searching the web, and it seems that most reference the color as Sonic Blue, especially for the Mustang. Compare the Reranch Sonic Blue sample I posted with the blue Mustang at the top of the page. Looks like a match to me, but one posting I found said they are very close, and you can't really tell on a computer screen.
  17. Was the 64/64 Mustang Sonic Blue: or the slightly darker Daphne Blue? I think it was the ligher Sonic Blue. Based on this picture of me and my Mustang from around 65/66 when I was 30 pounds lighter , I think it was Sonic Blue. but then old photographs can fade a lot over 40+ years.
  18. Are you serious? Even if you're not serious about building a body, maybe you'd like to get together to jam some time. I'm on Auckland, south of Magnolia, and west of Cahuenga. I guess about 3 to 4 miles from you. I thought about using single coil sized humbuckers and a tap switch. I replaced the neck pickup in my Carvin Bolt with one of those. The only thing is, I play mostly "surf" so I thought that single coils were the best choice. Ya know, those slide switches are not technically ON/OFF/OUT OF PHASE, they are sort of ON+-/OFF/ON-+ so if you have one set for ON+-, and the other set f
  19. I think I'm going to put together a Warmoth Mustang. I'd like to do some different things with the wiring. I'm thinking of using push/pull switch pots, and using one of the switches to switch in a Jag style "strangle cap". That leaves one more switch. What could I do with that? Another option would be to install concentric pots, so I could have volume and tone for each pickup. I just don't think that would be practical, since I always play with the tone all the way up anyway. Maybe a volume for each pickup, and the "strangle cap" switch on the single tone control. Any opinions?
  20. I bought a Warmoth Mustang bridge, because I needed the saddle height adjustments so I could match the radius of the Warmoth neck I installed. Now I'm getting a buzz from the bridge on certain strings, depending on how I adjust the bridge. The only thing I can figure out is it might have something to do with the sharp points on the ends of the bridge height adjustment screws. The original screws on the original bridge are kind of round.. nearly flat. I'm thinking of filing off those points, but I thought I'd ask if anyone else has had a problem like this. As I type, I just realized that
  21. Ok, I just got my Mustang back from Dave Neely (http://www.neelyguitars.com/) who fixed the nut that Warmoth apparently didn't finish off. What a difference He also pointed out a couple of problems: 1. Although my neck is tight, the neck plate isn't. I can't turn the screws anymore, so I'm going to have to drill the holes just a tad deeper. 2. He could tell by the electrical buzzing (that would go away when the touched both the tailpiece and the control plate), that the tailpiece was NOT grounded. I don't think it ever was. I've since verified that with an ohm meter. So my plan is to
  22. I know! Just two days ago, before I found the original that was in the case I had stored away, I was using one from a big set of keys I got at Pep Boys or Auto Zone. It was the smallest one in this big set of keys (English, not Metric), and it was marked .050. BTW, the trem key is 3/32. Side story - Many years ago I worked for a company called Weber Aircraft in Burbank Ca. I couldn't adjust my bridge, so I thought I'd sneak out of work, drive to Fender in Fullerton and see if they could sell me a new bridge. One of their guys took a look at it and determined the hex key was bad or worn, and j
  23. Here's the bottom of the trem. It looks as if the springs could be moved down to the grove below where they are. There's no way they could have slid to where they are on their own, so this is the way it has always been. I'm I'm satisfied with the way it is now, so I didn't want to go through the hassle of trying to move them, reinstalling it, tuning up, and possibility having to take it apart again to put it back the way it was. So I left it alone
  24. I'll have it apart again today (except the neck ) so I can rub out the areas I had to touch up, so I'll take one more look. Yesterday I had a strong feeling that the springs were where the belong. If the tail piece is lowered too much, the strings will be touching the back of the bridge. Right now it plays well except he nut is too high. I don't think Warmoth really finished it off. I don't have a set of nut files, so I'll take it to a pro.
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