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418/1000

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About 418/1000

  • Birthday 12/13/1966

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  1. It'll be the 65 for me as it just seems to sound better... To my ears at least...
  2. Hi Guys, Got a quandary going on here re wiring up a 65 RI that i'm building... The body has two earth lines on it, one from under the bridge cup and the other from the cavity shields. Both of these end in the switch cavity ready to attach to the back of the pot. My quandary is that there is a solder blob on the switch cavity shield plate and it is not linked to the other shields in the chain... Does the line from the rest of the shield chain connect to this solder point and it has become detached at some point or is there a third earth line that has fallen off somewhere along the way...??? If you look real close you can see the tail end of a line still in the solder blob... Hopefully the pic will explain it better than I can... Here's hoping someone can help, all the best... Mark.
  3. Yeah, i'll go with that... 65 RI Mustang - MIJ 69 RI Mustang - MIJ Jagstang - MIJ ESP Viper - MIJ Ampeg Dan Armstrong - MIJ and.... 85 Gibson Les Paul Custom - USA Guess I love my MIJ guitars...
  4. I bit the bullet yesterday and flipped mine over and locked it down... I must admit that I never really thought I had much in the way of stability issues, I just thought I'd give it a go to see what happened... Used some nice 6mm stainless Allen headed bolts and packed the excess distance with washers, a smidge of Loctite on the threads and then threw her back together with fresh strings... I was not prepared for such an extensive improvement in tuning stability, tone or sustain... I, for one, will not be going back to to a conventional trem setup... Don't know why I have never done this simple mod before now... Hardtail all the way Baby... :grin:
  5. There you go dudes... My Fender Adjusto-matic / Mustang mod... Hope this helps ya... Thanks to Mr Earth for help re: posting images... Peace...
  6. I will try and post some pics of my conversion so you can view for yourselves if it is what you are after for your own guitars... Bare with me as this image posting thing via server is new to me... LOL... Any advice re hosting sites would be great as Imageshack won't play ball...
  7. Hey there dude, thanks for your reply... In regards to the above: I took a standard Adjusto-matic, I didn't file any of the saddles (they didn't look nor feel as if this was required), strung it with 56 - 13 gauge strings and tuned two full steps down to C (the standard setup for all my guitars...). One live show later (one and a half hours of Punk Rock...) and not one string popped out... So... Am I just lucky or does this mod work... Hmmm, I've been playing guitar in Punk bands for over 30 years and the only time I have had strings pop out has been on my first guitar (a K Les Paul copy) and on the ####ty affair that is the standard Jazzmaster bridge... It works for me... The reason I posted was to try and help the people here to affect this mod with the least aggravation possible. If you stop to think about it, most folk are really hesitant about taking tools to their instruments. Most would rather take it to the shop for even the most minor of jobs as they don't want to hurt their pride and joy or end up paying more to have it fixed due to their lack of experience/skill in effecting the task. So to present them with filing bridge saddles down to follow the profile of the neck radius might be a tall order to some. My point is that if you choose (and it's all about choice) to use the Fender produced Adjusto-matic the profile is already there... There isn't a need to file... Besides, a string should sit ON a saddle not IN a saddle... otherwise it's life is shortened considerably and it will fail.. It seems to me that by using the AOM and not the TOM you save yourself time and aggro. Plus, above all, it is a simple task which is able to be carried out by even the most ham-fisted of blokes ie: myself...
  8. Hi guys, I thought I'd wade in on the tune-o-matic bridge mod topic as this may be of some help to you all. Especially those of you who are new to taking their pride and joy apart or are apprehensive about what it is they may be doing or buying to complete the task. I did a little research and found that Fender make their own version of the Tune-o-matic called the Adjusto-matic. I picked mine up new from an eBay shop called The STRATosphere for a good price and then fitted the beast. Looking at the profile of the saddles they are arranged in the same order as the original Mustang unit ie: two high central saddles, either side of these there are two intermediate saddles then either side of these there are two short saddles. This arrangement allows the strings the correct profile for the neck radius... Nice... Problems solved for both string profile and spacing... The usual rules apply for the bridge posts in the respect of taping the stems to fit the cups. All that remains is to drop the bridge on to the posts... The neck now needs to be shimmed to slightly alter the neck angle. I found that the Subway loyalty card provides the correct size and shape for this simple task although any store loyalty card will do as long as there are no embossed or raised design features... Cut a strip, 1cm in depth, from the end of the card, remove the neck and place it in the neck pocket hard up against the wall at the pickup end of the pocket... Screw the neck back on tightly (the rear two screws will require extra pressure as they will need to pass through the shim...) As the shim is quite thin there are no detectable gaps between neck and body so no ugliness worries there. All that remains is to string up, tune up and intonate... There's a link at the bottom to the place where I got mine... Hope this helps you out if you are thinking about undertaking this easy mod. Best thing is that it only takes a few minutes to effect and is totally reversible... I use my Adjusto-matic equipped Mustang for all my band's live shows and I love it over the stock unit... My link
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