Jump to content

chunka chunka

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

chunka chunka's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)



  1. If you can get a multimeter, set it to ohms & measure, the bridge pickup should have a higher reading. They need to put more winds on the bridge, to make it a bit hotter, due to its position.
  2. This site might help http://www.eltjohaselhoff.com/Main/Articles/Entries/2010/2/2_String_Gauges_for_Alternate_Tunings.html
  3. Some like them, some don,t. I,ve never seen the need, If you can set up the bridge properly, you probably don,t need one. Try making sure that the bridge saddles are flat/parallel to the bridge plate. Once you are happy with the adjustments, Try some blue loctite or clear nail polish(some even use wax) on all the screws including the bridge height adjustment screws. Shimming the neck pocket can also help. If all these fail for you, then go the buzz stop or better still a Mastery Bridge(pricey though)
  4. The AC30 is 30w rms into 16ohms. What that means is that the power tubes start to break up at around 30w, so the actual output can be a a fair bit higher. Combined with 2 x 12inch speakers, there would probably would not be much difference in perceived volume levels. Valve amps sound good when overdriven, as opposed to solid state(generally).
  5. Maybe the arm is worn, as opposed to the collet. Though expensive, there is a modified replacement trem socket available on e-bay. It claims to solve all the issues. See it here: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Tremolo-upgrade-US-MIM-Fender-Jaguar-Jazzmaster-/180655117438?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2a0fe2547e
  6. Depends a bit on what sort of mustang. Generally Speaking. Vintage = Nitro Modern = Poly / Nitro Poly = Hard wearing. If you like a guitar that shines up niceley, even after a bit of neglect & withstands player wear & bumps. Most Likely favours the high end a bit more for a spankier sound. Nitro = If you are using good quality timbers, as it lets the body(Timbre) shine through(breathe).If You like a guitar that will bump, scratch & show player wear, tells a story, a bit like the reliced models. No real rules, but it might look bit odd to have a Poly finish on a Vintage project.
  7. The first diagram is a treble retention circuit, ie stops the tone going muddy as you roll off he volume. .001uf normal but .0006 to .001 possible. Often a resistor(about 220k in parallel) is fitted to limit the amount of bypass. The second diagram is a tone circuit, ie cap wired from the tone pot wiper to ground. Anything under .01uf on this will render the tone control fairly thin. Try a .01 on the tone & .001 on the treble retention. Sometimes a resistor need to be fitted in the retention circuit if the tone gets too bright when you roll off the volume. Be wary of your rig / setup. Check tone & retention with a good lead plugged directly into your amp. Then, check it through your pedals(if you have any). Sometimes a buffer / Booster is required.
  8. Seems to help if you position the ball end so that you can see through the ring from side on. Also check for burrs in the socket.
  9. The valves may have gone microphonic(ie picking up interference from another source). Try swapping V1, they are usually a 12ax7.
  10. Did you check the in/out jacks & connections to see that they are tight & intact. sometimes, if you are lucky, it is something simple.
  11. Also the "Crafted in Japan" term was only used after 1997. So 2002-04 it is.
  12. It might be the switch. If you can get hold of a multimeter, set it on ohms, trace where the switch connects to the circuit board, press the switch & see if there is any change(should read close to zero). Is there any clean sound going through it, if not, there could be a latching circuit problem(boss pedals aren,t true bypass). In hind-sight it would be advisable to test/demo the pedal in the shop before buying. Some people dump defective gear on pawn shops if they think that they wont test it. Sounds like you have a good basis for a refund.
  • Create New...