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spirograph

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Posts posted by spirograph

  1. the BYOC muff is good, apparently. im into the sounds you describe (im a massive pumpkins fan also), and i use a zoom ultrafuzz. theyre rare as rocking-horse sh!t, but sound so dense and thick. very versatile, can do the heavily compressed, boomy, muffy stuff, or can be more of a heavy distortion, or it can be used for lighter tones too. and does all the craziness of those boutique fuzzes that people pay silly money for. got a built in noise gate too, which can be used for corrective and creative purposes.

    on a cheaper note the behringer superfuzz can do pumpkins sounds. or at least billy corgan thinks so anyway - he posted a pic of one on their faceb**k page a while ago with the caption "new weapon of choice", or something to that effect.

    you tried a boss ds2? under the right amp conditions, it can get quite siamese dream-like.

  2. i like it a lot. but, like wiseman, cant afford it. but i cant afford more than one pair of footwear at a time, so all guitars are out of my price range, including one of my own, which needs a new nut.

    the new jaguarillo is pretty cool too, but its a terrible name. really terrible actually. still, at least fender bother to name their guitars, unlike some companies who use a string of numbers n letters to identify a guitar.

  3. I didn't realise putting the wah in the loop could affect the pedal or amp negatively.

    And I got the amp up to around 8, out of 12 (eat your heart out Spinal Tap), before the neighors made a fuss.

    sick! my JetCity goes up to nine, presumably 'cause its basically a small Soldano. regarding fx, as far as im aware, anything gain/volume based should go in front of your amp, and the time based stuff goes in your loop. but then ive heard of people using eq pedals in fx loops. i guess an eq pedal is a lot less aggressive in some way to a wah.

  4. Spirograph,

    There certainly should be a way to get more feedback from it. A lot of it will depend upon whether the pedal is SMT, digital, digital/analog hybrid or through-hole 100% analog. I'm familiar with Rocktron, but not this particular unit. Is there anyway you could snap a shot of the pcb? If it's limited by a gate or a potentiometer value, you could certainly get more feedback out of it. Through-hole boxes are the simplest to tweak due to the ample pad space and usually relatively large traces inherent in that design. SMT can get tricky because of the need for a hot air rework station. Digital can be done, but usually involves replacement or programming of a microprocessor. Think arduino. ; )

    Hope this helps a bit and shoot a pic of the inside if you can!

    thanks for your reply. i dont have a camera atm, so no pics yet. i lent it to a friend n i cant get hold of her. i trust her tho, i will see it again soon im sure. and i dont have a phone either! (im a bit of a luddite).

    by smt, do you mean suface mounted? im pretty sure it aint, and it certainly aint digital. i tried to get into it once before, but didnt have the tool to get the pots removed from the case, and its got the components on the side i couldnt see.

  5. welcome! i asked about something on here a while ago, but got no response, probably 'cause its an odd mod. is there any way to get more feedback from a flanger? ive got a rocktron hypnotic flange, and its so lovely n lush, real quiet n transparant, but is more of a very heavy chorus really. i posted a thread called 'flanger modding', cant be more than a page or two back from here. what ya think? ive since bought an onerr hydrogen flanger too, but theyre both so different in character, i think modding the hypnoflange would still interest me.

  6. doubt it, but maybe. i expect moose fur is worth a lot. i think the chinbone nut thing is just a byproduct of the fur industry. its like that thing with vegetarians n vegans not wearing leather. no-one kills a cow for its skin do they! but still, putting money into an industry you find reprehensible is a bit crap innit. anyways, you had a look at your nut slots?

  7. not really, just as long as its better quality, which like i said earlier, it almost certainly will be. the man-made stuff like graphtech, and tusq etc are good, as is brass, apparently. bone is the traditional option. i read somewhere that moose-chin bone is the best, but i wouldnt ever endorse killing a moose just for its chinbone.

  8. yea i think you need a new nut. for clarity tho - i didnt mean to suggest anything about your fretboard itself. i meant that if theres any damage to the very front edge of the nut (the edge nearest the bridge) then the string will be 'taking off' from further back on the nut (nearer the tuners) which will mean that all the distances between the fretted notes and the open notes will be off-kilter, and it will never sound in tune.

    there is another possibility. if your nut slots are not cut low enough, you will have to apply so much pressure at the first few frets that it will sound sharp (like yours does) when playing fretted notes. however, if this is your problem, i would have expected you to complain about how it feels too. and i think you said its a few years old, so its likely that its just worn out. i suggest you slacken your treble strings, and inspect the nut slots - it isnt always obvious if the front edge is damaged, but usually it is obvious. and if you have a very narrow file (with a sharp edge, preferably) you mite be able to neaten the slot up a bit. however, the nut slots might already be as low as theyl realisticly go. the nut slots should always angle downward slightly towards the tuners, to ensure a clean take-off point.

    as for your string tree, it shouldnt be loose. try tightening it down (dont over-do it!). that might, just might sort your nut out too, if the slot is only slightly imperfect. but tbh, i think you need a new nut.

  9. the very very very front edge of the nut (the edge nearest the bridge) MUST be the last point that the string touches, before goin to the bridge. if the 'take off' point is further back (almost always thru damage, or sometimes just age) then this throws the whole intonation out, because the distance from the nut to the first fret is no longer exactly correct. and consequently, tuning the string open, to a tuner, will leave all fretted notes off-kilter. this is the kind of thing thats easy enough to see if you look closely.

    the solution? either replace the nut entirely, or clean the slot up, but this may leave the slot too low, and will require you to 'shim' (heighten, with a thin layer of wood or something) the nut. my advice is to just replace the nut. cant remember exactly (i havent slept), but i think you said its quite an old guitar, and most guitars have pretty cheap plastic nuts on when they leave the factory, so be sure to get a nut thats better than the current one.

  10. thats a tasty looking mustang youve got there! welcome aboard too btw. im pretty new to all this, and so are a few others on ere,but its a good knowledge source, so youve come to the right place.

    id make a couple of cosmetic changes. id go for a brown tortoiseshell scratchplate, (tho i think black would be more 'vintage correct' - but #### that!), id stick to white/cream pickups, but if you wana change em, do it. im no pickup expert (and i dont own a mustang yet) but plenty of people put the seymour duncan quater-pound jaguar pickups (without the saw-tooth surround) in mustangs and have good things to say about them. another popular choice is lace sensors, cos they dont have visible polepieces, so look more 'vintage correct'. also, theyre pretty much noiseless, and come in a variety of sonic flavours too.

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