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carlmcd

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Everything posted by carlmcd

  1. Last I checked most of the Japanese reissues were basswood; just some of the higher-end (and higher-priced) ones, and the 65s, aren't. I could be off, too lazy to go look, but I know when I was looking at comps there they were basswood. This was less than a year ago. After shipping and (possibly) import duties, this will be damn pricey. But the thing to remember is that Cobain played Japanese 'stangs. A lot of people played Japanese 'stangs. Now, if I were you what I'd probably try to look at is finding a used KC 'stang, in the LPB/comp that you want, and just refinish the headstock if you prefer. The savings on getting it used will help offset the refinishing, then any electronics stuff you want to change up you can do yourself. Might take a little patience, but those things will be around on the secondary market. There are already some out there to be had, but there will be more before long. Get something used that already has the first ding out of the way, too, so that you don't feel bad about making it your own and altering it any way you please...also, so you don't worry about gig/road damage. Then just enjoy it.
  2. So finally got all the soldering done, everything put back together...and blah. Something's not making good connectinon, so my bridge pickup is flaky. I think it's actually the switch contacts themselves, either from flux or bending something or whatever. Could be one of the tabs, though. Either way, it ain't workin' right. However, when it does work (when the switch makes good contact) it sounds exactly as it should...so my design is right. I'll probably just order up some new switches, and re-do it. I'll probably, oddly enough, be a little less strict in my soldering this time...I think the problem is that I was so worried about fluxing and tinning and getting everything just right that I over-did it. I mean, given what it looked like when I opened it, I shouldn't have worried so much. It looked like a drunken teenager had put it together. Anyway, just wanted to update in case anybody ever looked at this diagram and wanted to actually try it. It works.
  3. Also, for $300 I'd absolutely consider looking at one of these. I'd want to play it in-store, make sure it's a decent, but as something to beat up or mess with alternate tunings? Oh yeah.
  4. Well, the Japanese 'stangs are extortionate prices. Squier, though? That's $500 MSRP, which is bound to stay at $300 or less in-store price ($300 at Musician's Friend right now). That's pretty much right-on-target for a student model. Wish I had known about these before I hacked apart my Japanese Mustang to mod it. I'd definitely have considered working on one of these first, for practice, before messing with the more expensive guitar.
  5. So I found a nice little '65 RI, white with the tortoiseshell, that I picked up for a song. Of course, it needed new tuners (one had a button that would just spin around the post), a setup (no big deal), and now all that's left is these stupid switches. If they click back at all the pickup is cut off, which while not entirely unexpected is still not something I want to deal with forever. So, two questions. One, are these switches normal, or should I replace them? I'm talking like a millimeter of movement kills them, and there's very little force holding them against the pickguard (so they naturally just bounce back into the center position). But they both react the same, so I'm thinking these switches just suck in general? Are there any aftermarket switches that are better? Two, I've decided I want to rewire this thing to eliminate the "both off" position. Because seriously, that's crazy talk. I was googling around for a wiring diagram that did what I wanted, and didn't find it (nor did I find it here). Apologies if it has been covered before, but here's what I came up with. I want to use one switch as a pickup selector (neck/both/bridge), obviously. I want to use the other to keep the in-phase/out-of-phase option (in/in/out). The first is easy, and covered in any number of diagrams out there anyway. I stared at the switches for a bit, and came up with this for the second: So, did I miss anything? The bottom switch is doing nothing but selecting phase on the bridge pickup, then routing it to the pickup selector in parallel with the neck. Obviously the output on the right just goes off to the knobs as normal. EDIT: Also, haven't pulled the pickguard and looked at this thing yet, so also curious if there's anything that's going to make this harder than it should be. EDIT: I'm guessing I should also ground the second switch body...duh. Can just do that off the same tab that's wired to the first switch's body. Fixed the image. EDIT: And it seems the wiring is correct, but my workmanship is bad. See new post. But the diagram above should work for what I'm doing.
  6. This made me smile. Also love the pictures. She's pretty. Just needs some love.
  7. You'll be pleased to know I regained my senses. It helped that a cheap reissue came up on Craigslist right down the street....from a guy where I work no less, so he let me borrow it before buying. It's not exactly what I wanted, but if/when the time comes I can recoup most of what I paid, and it gives me something to play on now while I wait. Definitely taking your post to heart, though. Also loving this 'stang. After a couple weeks with it, I'm definitely sold on them.
  8. My local guitar center never stocks fender short scales....you're lucky to see a pawn shop mustang in there.
  9. kurosawagakki.com Good selection, got back to my email super quickly, and relatively reasonable prices. They charge the normal discounted prices (in yen), not full fender sticker price like some places. Which means that even after the $170 or so for insured shipping, you aren't paying much more than you'd pay for a reissue in the US. Came out to like 1100 usd with shipping (quote, haven't ordered yet).
  10. So I finally got tired of trolling Craigslist for the perfect Mustang, and I'm thinking I might just try getting a new reissue from Japan. I'd just get one here, but honestly I'm not wild about the selection that Fender has in the US. So a few questions, if maybe somebody has done this here. - Did you get held up by customs? How much, if any, did you have to pay? This is in the US, as mentioned. - Anything quirky about the 73 Competition reissues (http://fenderjapan.co.jp/mg73co.html) I should know? I've only actually touched the 65 and Pawn Shop, and the latter doesn't really count (not bad, just not a normal Mustang). - Any dealers you can recommend on price, service, or both? Best lead I have right now is. Kurosawa Music, seem to have a good mix of price and selection. However, payment is limited to wire transfer or PayPal. Uncomfortable. Still, about $200-$400 less than other options, based on their website (and google currency conversion) . Mainly because everybody else (ebay and English oriented sites) seems to be charging full sticker price (converted to dollars). Yikes! - Anybody seen the Ocean Turquoise Metallic (OTM) in person? Is it ridiculous? I'm leaning towards that or the Vintage White. - Any other general advice? EDIT: Looks like duty on a guitar from Japan runs like 9%. Not cheap, but not crazy.
  11. The Champ 600 is a fun little amp, and it does take pedals quite nicely. Super-cheap, too (seen them used for less than $100 at GC). Be aware, though, that while it CAN pack a punch if you crank it, the 6" speaker included is also a bit...underwhelming. You'll be fine if you're stripping off some of the lows using either pedals or your guitar's tone controls...but I found that playing straight into it with too much low end it would get SUPER sloppy. The 6" speaker just doesn't have that low end, but it tries to respond down there and the results ain't pretty. I hear you can clear this up somewhat by replacing the speaker with something that has a slightly more appropriate response. Not a pricey switch, either. It also sounds great run through a cabinet. Also, if you can find a used one, the Blues Junior (Fender) is a great little amp. Takes pedals decently as well, but you can also get some really nice tone out of it straight. Plenty of clean headroom though. I feel like the new asking price (like $500) is high, but if you can find one GC usually sells them used for like $350 or $400 (I picked mine up for $300 cash used). Only thing it's missing, if I had my wish, is an effects loop.
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