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raoulduke215

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  1. Considering the style of music you're playing, I don't think you'll regret getting a JM. Personally, I have an American Vintage RI, but I have heard good things about the model you're considering as well. Bridge - I have a Mustang bridge and a buzz stop. This combo works really well. No popping and the buzz stop allows you to have decent low action without string buzzing. I would say that both of these adjustments are almost mandatory. (again keeping in mind your style, the big muff as well). These are both fairly inexpensive mods and you could do them yourself. Pups - I have the Lollar P-90 in my neck. DEFINITELY recommend. Beefy for sure. Super warm clean tone in the neck-only position. Stomp on the big muff and you can get some real deep, dirty Thurston Moore type sounds. Chords in this position can get muddy, but that's where the my bridge pup advice comes in. In the bridge, I have a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pound (SJM-3). This guy is where it's at. Bridge-only position gives great mids & highs, but still carries the thickness a JM is known for. With dirt/fuzz activated it rings really clearly (my dirt boxes = Noc3 Rock Candy overdrive, Fuzzhugger Algal Bloom, black Russian Big Muff). The Lollar P-90 is RWRP and in the middle pickup position (both pups on), it is hum-canceling. (This feature works with the SJM-3 [and prob a variety of other bridge JM pups], or if you move the stock neck pup into the bridge position). And since you get the hum-cancelling position with the p-90, you could do without a humbucker IMO. I think with a humbucker in the bridge, you'd lose this feature. Happy hunting.
  2. Hello all. I'm hoping for some wiring assistance. Here's the scoop: CIJ RI Fender Mustang. 2004 approx. Current pups are single coils, don't think they are stock though. I am the second owner, looks like previous owner installed staggered single coils (brand unknown, both neck & bridge read 5.8K on the back of the pup). I am replacing the bridge pickup with a Seymour Duncan Lil' Screamin' Demon single-coil sized humbucker. I also picked up CTS 500K pots (audio taper). One of them is push/pull. The tone cap I have to install is .022uF. I am looking to wire it for the following switch settings: (headstock------tailpiece) -0- -0- both pickups off -0- 0-- bridge on (forward) -0- --0 bridge on (back) 0-- -0- neck on (forward) --0 -0- neck on (back) 0-- 0-- both pups on, in phase --0 --0 both pups on, in phase 0-- --0 both pups on, out of phase --0 0-- both pups on, out of phase My aim is to have the push/pull as the tone pot. Pushed in, humbucker, pulled out single coil. So for the aforementioned settings, the settings with both pickups would be bridge as humbucker when pushed. Then bridge as single coil when pulled. And with the bridge-only pup setting, the same push/pull controls. I want the out of phase settings to be humcanceling, regardless of humbucker/single coil push/pull. Is this possible? I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for this specifically. Does anyone have a simpler idea to achieve these (or comparable) settings? Thanks!
  3. What would indicate "recess"? Because that description sounds accurate. Thanks.
  4. Hey guys...first timer here so be gentle. Thanks. So my Mustang (CIJ, '04-05, w/ n&b alnico single coils) isn't giving me much from the volume knob. Specifically, 90% of the volume is in the first o'clock that I turn. At max volume, with one slight o'clock turn down it becomes drastically quieter. Turn the knob lower than that and (it's not silent but) it is not at a feasible playing volume. (This problem occurs when I am playing clean and/or through my LPB-1 [clean boost]. When I engage my Big Muff, the volume knob is more reactive and lets me clean up the fuzz.) Do I need to replace the pot? If so, what type of pot? Could it be a wiring issue? Is thems just the CIJ breaks? Something else in my chain maybe (I have done extensive troubleshooting to isolate the issue)? Sorry to say, but I don't know the pots that are currently in there. I bought the Mustang second-hand; I'm guessing the pots are factory-issue. They look split-shaft, like a Tele I once had. Thanks for any advice. I'd like to be able to service my own equipment, instead of running to the shop and dropping dough every time I need some repair/adjustment. But I am stumped here.
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