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Ricey last won the day on September 20 2016

Ricey had the most liked content!

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About Ricey

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  1. New vibrato tailpiece for Jazz/Jag discussed here: [url]https://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=117440[/url] Offers extended range over the vintage style alternative. Per Fender, it is a direct drop in replacement, but currently only available on the new American Perf II Jazzmaster. No word yet if or when it will be offered on Jags or as a replacement part.
  2. Interesting! I too own a CP Jag HH and it came brand new with a screw in arm? That was one of the special features that distinguishes a CP Jag from a regular Jaguar, besides the other ones you mentioned. It sounds like you've got a stock pop-in Jaguar bar instead of the screw in bar. If you are attempting to use a pop-in Jag bar with a stock CP Jag collet designed for a screw in bar, then I would not expect the bar to stay in place very well-the stock Jag pop in bar and matching collet are wanky enough as is! I'll bet you can order the CP Jag screw-in bar from Fender. If you get it and i
  3. Update: For anyone also experiencing this issue, it turned out that there was not enough string tension pushing down on the bridge to hold it in place. There are two springs under the bridge attached to notched posts. I set the springs into the last notch at the end of the post for maximum spring tension and that pulled the lipstick tube back a bit, increasing the downward pressure of the strings on the bridge. Now the bridge no longer wiggles around and tuning stability after using the bar is greatly increased. I also suggest not going lower than .10 gauge strings. Tightening down t
  4. I found the correct sized nylon tipped grub screws on-line and bought a bag of 6, but you can probably find them at any hardware store. They work GREAT and are cheap. The nylon tip holds the bar in very securely, yet allows you to slide the bar in and out without adjusting the screw every time. It works very similarly to the pop in bar on my AmDlx Strat. I do have to occasionally tighten the screw a bit as the fit loosens with repeated use, put it takes only seconds. I would post a link to the supplier I used but dont want to get in trouble for "advertising" on this site.
  5. I would like to replace the stock "Vintage Style" tuners on my Classic Player Jaguar HH with a set of high-quality direct replacement locking tuners. The stock tuners look identical to the vintage Kluson style tuners found on the American Original series, but I believe the gears are made of plastic instead of metal? I prefer NOT to do any drilling or routing on my headstock. I have read that there are sometimes compatibility issues with replacement tuners because of U.S. vs. metric measurements and that sometimes the posts or bushings can be either too big or too small? I assum
  6. It is now also much easier to switch pickups on the fly using the 3-way mini-toggle. I had trouble coordinating that with the sliders; e.g., to go from a crunchy rhythm tone on the bridge pup to a warm "woman" lead tone, I used to have to simultaneously turn of the bridge pup slider, turn on the neck pup slider, and roll down the master tone knob. Now I can just roll down the neck pup tone on the back dual concentric pot before the song starts or at at any point in the song before the lead break, then just flick the mini toggle to the up position with my pinky at the start of the lead break.
  7. So I took my guitar in to have the wiring mod done. I gave the tech the link to your wiring diagram, but he ended up doing his own thing. He installed the mini-toggle in between the volume/tone pots to select pups. Middle position is both pups on. The front slider toggles between neck SC pup off and in/out of phase when both pups are on together. The back slider toggles the bridge HB between full HB, split coil on the slug coil, and both coils on in series. The big difference between this set up and your wiring diagram is that I can't split to the screw coil of the JB. The trade off is
  8. And, just to be clear, I am not describing a vintage style rocking Mustang or Jaguar bridge. I used to have a Jag-Stang, so I am familiar with that type of bridge. I locked down the tailpiece on that guitar and used surgical tubing on the bridge posts underneath the bridge plate. The issue with my Mustang is above the bridge plate where the bridge fits over the top of the bridge posts. The diameter difference between the posts and holes in the bridges is so large that I can actually push one side of the bridge forward towards the headstock, while simultaneously pulling the other end of the
  9. I bought a used MIJ Fender Kurt Cobain Mustang with adjustomatic bridge. The diameter of the holes in the bridge that accept the bridge posts is too large. The bridge easily wiggles forward and back on the posts when I use the vibrato bar, sending the guitar out of tune and messing with the intonation. I have two questions: 1. Why would Fender design it this way? I have a MIM Classic Player Jaguar HH that also came stock with an adjustomatic bridge and it does not have this issue. There is a large screw on top of my Jag bridge post to tighten down the bridge so it doesn't move, just
  10. I had one of the original run Jag-Stangs back in the nineties. That one did not have a coil split option, so I had a push pull pot added. With the bucker split, it did a great Straty "in-between" setting with both pups engaged, which is what I am going for with the split switch I want added to my Mustang.
  11. I will try the Graphtec saddles. Thanks for the insights...good info!
  12. WOW...this is great...THANKS! Did you come up with this yourself? Have you ever tried it yourself?
  13. It has the vintage 7.25" radius. Btw, I have a Classic Player Jag HH with the exact same Fender TOM clone and stock imitation bone nut and it stays in tune better than my USA Deluxe Strat with a 2 post floating bridge and a graphtec nut, So I am thinking that the KC should be able to be set up to stay in tune a little better than currently with the existing bridge.
  14. I have a MIJ Cobain Mustang with Duncan JB Bridge and MIJ Mustang neck pup. I would like dual concentric pots so each pup will have independent volume and tone controls. Additionally, would like to be able to split to either coil of the JB, while retaining the out of phase pup option. I was thinking of three potential solutions: 1. Add a mini three-way toggle in between the volume/tone pots to switch between pups and then use one of the existing three way sliders to switch in/out of phase and the other slider to switch the JB between full humbucking, split slug coil, and split screw
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