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Ricey

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Everything posted by Ricey

  1. Interesting! I too own a CP Jag HH and it came brand new with a screw in arm? That was one of the special features that distinguishes a CP Jag from a regular Jaguar, besides the other ones you mentioned. It sounds like you've got a stock pop-in Jaguar bar instead of the screw in bar. If you are attempting to use a pop-in Jag bar with a stock CP Jag collet designed for a screw in bar, then I would not expect the bar to stay in place very well-the stock Jag pop in bar and matching collet are wanky enough as is! I'll bet you can order the CP Jag screw-in bar from Fender. If you get it and it does not screw in properly, then you will need to order the proper threaded collet as well. From what I understand, the collets and bars in most Jaguar models are interchangeable, but you have to have a collet and bar that match, which, apparently, you do not. Another feature of the CP Jag is that the tailpiece is positioned about 1/4" closer to the bridge that on a regular Jag. This was designed to improve the break angle of the string over the bridge to improve tuning stability. Unfortunately, Fender forgot to shorten the bar to compensate for the repositioning of the tailpiece. A Jaguar bar is a little longer than a typical Strat bar. The net effect on a CP Jag is that the tip of the bar lies closer to the end of the fretboard. I did not like this and had my bar cut down. The tip of the bar now sits in a more favorable position relative to my fingers. This may not be an issue for you-I have small hands and the stock CP Jag screw in arm would be a huge improvement over one that keeps falling out on you. You could also cut your bar down and re-thread the tip at a machine shop if it you cannot adjust to the extra bit of length.
  2. Update: For anyone also experiencing this issue, it turned out that there was not enough string tension pushing down on the bridge to hold it in place. There are two springs under the bridge attached to notched posts. I set the springs into the last notch at the end of the post for maximum spring tension and that pulled the lipstick tube back a bit, increasing the downward pressure of the strings on the bridge. Now the bridge no longer wiggles around and tuning stability after using the bar is greatly increased. I also suggest not going lower than .10 gauge strings. Tightening down the lipstick tube a bit more probably would have also helped.
  3. I found the correct sized nylon tipped grub screws on-line and bought a bag of 6, but you can probably find them at any hardware store. They work GREAT and are cheap. The nylon tip holds the bar in very securely, yet allows you to slide the bar in and out without adjusting the screw every time. It works very similarly to the pop in bar on my AmDlx Strat. I do have to ocassionally tighten the screw a bit as the fit loosens with repeated use, put it takes only seconds. I would post a link to the supplier I used but dont want to get in trouble for "advertising" on this site.
  4. I would like to replace the stock "Vintage Style" tuners on my Classic Player Jaguar HH with a set of high-quality direct replacement locking tuners. The stock tuners look identical to the vintage Kluson style tuners found on the American Original series, but I believe the gears are made of plastic instead of metal? I prefer NOT to do any drilling or routing on my headstock. I have read that there are sometimes compatibility issues with replacement tuners because of U.S. vs. metric measurements and that sometimes the posts or bushings can be either too big or too small? I assume the pegholes and bushings are metric sized on a CP Jag? Any ideas for direct replacement locking tuners? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
  5. It is now also much easier to switch pickups on the fly using the 3-way mini-toggle. I had trouble coordinating that with the sliders; e.g., to go from a crunchy rhythm tone on the bridge pup to a warm "woman" lead tone, I used to have to simultaneously turn of the bridge pup slider, turn on the neck pup slider, and roll down the master tone knob. Now I can just roll down the neck pup tone on the back dual concentric pot before the song starts or at at any point in the song before the lead break, then just flick the mini toggle to the up position with my pinky at the start of the lead break.
  6. So I took my guitar in to have the wiring mod done. I gave the tech the link to your wiring diagram, but he ended up doing his own thing. He installed the mini-toggle in between the volume/tone pots to select pups. Middle position is both pups on. The front slider toggles between neck SC pup off and in/out of phase when both pups are on together. The back slider toggles the bridge HB between full HB, split coil on the slug coil, and both coils on in series. The big difference between this set up and your wiring diagram is that I can't split to the screw coil of the JB. The trade off is that I got the series option on the HB, which some people like, but I think I would rather have the split screw coil to get closer to a Mustang SC bridge pup sound. I am not sure if your wiring diagram was too complicated for him or if he just went with something he was familiar with, but it is still very cool. The JB cuts much better now with the 500 k pots and I can just roll the tone pot back halfway to get the same sound I had with the stock 250 k pots. The neck SC is set up with 250 k pots, same as stock. For anyone thinking of doing a similar wiring mod, you can't do pinky swells on the front bottom dual concentric pot because your pinky hits the mini toggle, so you have to set up the top dual concentric pot to control volume if you like to do volume swells (or put the switch somewhere else). If you also want to have the ability to roll back the tone knob on the fly with your pinky, you are out of luck (unless you place the mini-toggle switch somewhere else) This is not a problem for me because I pretty much set and forget the tone control, with only minor adjustments here and there. I now can get a good Stratty "in-between" setting tone with both pups on and the JB split. The top dual concentric volume pot is in the perfect position for pinky swells. I can also get a nice clean sound with both pups on and the JB in full HB mode by rolling down the volume on the JB to clean it up, while leaving the neck SC volume full up. I can also get a nice "thin" out of phase tone with both pups on and the JB in either HB or split coil mode. I can also get a good "stutter" effect by turning the neck pup slider off and using the mini-toggle to toggle between the middle and neck position. It was harder to get that effect using just the stock sliders. All in all, I am very pleased!
  7. And, just to be clear, I am not describing a vintage style rocking Mustang or Jaguar bridge. I used to have a Jag-Stang, so I am familiar with that type of bridge. I locked down the tailpiece on that guitar and used surgical tubing on the bridge posts underneath the bridge plate. The issue with my Mustang is above the bridge plate where the bridge fits over the top of the bridge posts. The diameter difference between the posts and holes in the bridges is so large that I can actually push one side of the bridge forward towards the headstock, while simultaneously pulling the other end of the bridge back towards the tailpiece. I want to use the vibrato bar on this guitar, so I don't want to lock it down like I did with my Jag-Stang.
  8. I bought a used MIJ Fender Kurt Cobain Mustang with adjustomatic bridge. The diameter of the holes in the bridge that accept the bridge posts is too large. The bridge easily wiggles forward and back on the posts when I use the vibrato bar, sending the guitar out of tune and messing with the intonation. I have two questions: 1. Why would Fender design it this way? I have a MIM Classic Player Jaguar HH that also came stock with an adjustomatic bridge and it does not have this issue. There is a large screw on top of my Jag bridge post to tighten down the bridge so it doesn't move, just like a Gibson Tune-o-matic. My Stang' does not have these screws and I have looked at many online images of KC Mustangs and this appears to be the stock configuration. 2. Can this problem be fixed; e.g., cut up one of those metal Starbucks straws or wrap small pieces of a cut up aluminum can or something similar around the bridge posts? The guitar goes severely out of tune with vibrato use and my intonation is spotty. My adjustomatic equipped Jag's intonation is spot on and it stays in tune, even with heavy bar abuse. Any advice would be appreciated
  9. I had one of the original run Jag-Stangs back in the nineties. That one did not have a coil split option, so I had a push pull pot added. With the bucker split, it did a great Straty "in-between" setting with both pups engaged, which is what I am going for with the split switch I want added to my Mustang.
  10. I will try the Graphtec saddles. Thanks for the insights...good info!
  11. WOW...this is great...THANKS! Did you come up with this yourself? Have you ever tried it yourself?
  12. It has the vintage 7.25" radius. Btw, I have a Classic Player Jag HH with the exact same Fender TOM clone and stock imitation bone nut and it stays in tune better than my USA Deluxe Strat with a 2 post floating bridge and a graphtec nut, So I am thinking that the KC should be able to be set up to stay in tune a little better than currently with the existing bridge.
  13. I have a MIJ Cobain Mustang with Duncan JB Bridge and MIJ Mustang neck pup. I would like dual concentric pots so each pup will have independent volume and tone controls. Additionally, would like to be able to split to either coil of the JB, while retaining the out of phase pup option. I was thinking of three potential solutions: 1. Add a mini three-way toggle in between the volume/tone pots to switch between pups and then use one of the existing three way sliders to switch in/out of phase and the other slider to switch the JB between full humbucking, split slug coil, and split screw coil. 2. Use one of the existing 3-way sliders to switch between pups, the other to select in/out of phase options and then add a 3-way mini toggle in-between the volume/tone pots to split coils on the JB, as per above. 3. Basically the same as #2, but flip the function of the mini toggle and the out of phase slider. Would any of these work or is there another option to achieve my goals? BTW, I checked under the pickguard and there is no route near the lower horn to install a 3-way toggle like what you see on the current MIM Mustangs and I do no want to route the body.
  14. I have an MIJ Cobain Mustang with a Duncan JB bridge and stock MIJ pup in neck position. I would like to swap stock volume and tone pots with dual concentric pots so I can have individual volume and tone controls for each pickup. The JB tends to break up much earlier than the neck pup, which has tons of clean headroom. For clean tones with both pups engaged, I want to be able to ramp the volume control down on the JB to clean it up, while keeping the neck pup on full. I have read that the Cobain Stang has mini pots. Is this because the route in the control cavity is not large enough for full size pots or is it just an MIJ thing? I need to know what size dual concentric pots to buy?
  15. I have a KC Mustang. The vibrato action is very loose. I don't think there is enough spring tension to bring the strings back up to pitch after dropping down the bar.. The guitar goes instantly out of tune as soon as I touch the bar. The KC has one of those Fender Tun-O-matic clone bridges. My Classic Player HH Jag has that same bridge and scale length and it stays in tune better than any non-locking trem unit that I have ever played, so I am thinking the KC can be set up to stay in tune much better that it does currently. The trem action is much stiffer on my Jag, so I think that may be part of the solution, as well as possibly a shim. The Jag has an angled neck pocket, which also increases string tension somewhat. The tech that works on my guitars said there is an extra set of spring notches cut in my Mustang's bridge posts that he does not normally see in a Mustang. Moving the springs to this notch would increase the spring tension, but he said I might have difficulty changing strings because the cigar tube thingy would rotate back such that the string insert holes would rest at an inconvenient angle relative to the body. I am thinking that I could just simply push down on the vibrato bar with one hand and insert the strings in the holes with the other. Has anyone ever seen or utilized these extra notches in a KC or other MIJ Stang? If so, did it make it difficult to change strings?
  16. Found them: http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Switchcraft%2f46313LDRX%2f&qs=sGAEpiMZZMtHXLepoqNyVZCMvv58hU9aF0tZ7zhrSZg%3d
  17. I have a KC Mustang with a 3-way switch that is going bad (Neck PUP switch). Does anybody know who the best supplier for high-quality replacement 3-way Mustang/Jag-Stang switches would be? Are there replacements available that are better than the stock switches or are they all about the same? I would like to not have to replace again so soon, if better alternatives than stock are available.
  18. a Actually, I might be mixing up the "Special Design Atomic Humbucker" on the original version of the Cyclone with the "Special Design" humbucker on my original Jag-Stang. I think the Cyclone may have been the JB like DH-1. I am not sure what the Jag-Stang used. Somebody on here once said it was a Dimarzio.
  19. Can one of the positions on bridge PUP slider be set to split the coil or would I have to mount a dedicated mini-switch to do that?
  20. I had a Jag-stang back in the mid nineties and it came with an "Atomic Humbucker", which was a rebranded Fender DH-1 PUP. The DH-1 is a very good PUP designed by the late Bill Turner and it's specs are almost identical to a Duncan JB, so I don't think you will notice much of a difference in sound going to a JB. Of course, this is only true if you have one of the older Jag-Stangs. I don't know what PUPS they put in the later re-issues.
  21. I bought a used KC Mustang last Winter. It is MIJ with the 9.5" radius Fender Adjust-O-Matic bridge The spec on this guitar is a 7.25" fretboard radius, so I assumed that some of the saddle slots would have to be filed down to match the fretboard profile. I had it set up by an experienced luthier and he did not file the saddles, yet it plays GREAT! I wonder if Fender files the saddles to match the fretboard radius? If not, the previous owner must have done so.
  22. I just had my Mustang set up by a Luthier and it sounds much better now. He said the bridge pup was too low, so he remounted it. It is still mounted directly to the body, but is now much closer to the strings. Next time I talk to him, I will ask him exactly what he did, but, whatever he did, it sure did he trick! I used to have a Jag-Stang that sounded exactly like my Mustang before the set up, so I swapped PUPs. Now I wonder if it was the same problem and could have been solved without the PUP swap? It was the same luthier, so he probably would have done a similar type of set-up. Is the Jag-Stang a direct to body mount pup as well?
  23. The Fender Products page currently list both a 65' Mustang ($899) and Classic Series '65 Mustang ($939)? They appear to be virtually identical. What are the differences between them?
  24. I have heard that the AVRI Jag tailpiece assemblies are higher quality than the stock CP units? Are they interchangeable? If so, can I switch the screw in collet for the bar from the CP over to the AVRI? I do prefer the CP screw in unit over the AVRI. Better yet (for me) is the improved pop in unit from the Johnny Marr signature Jag. Could I put the Johnny Marr collet on an AVRI unit and then install it on my CP Jag (I like the trem lock on the AVRI)?
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