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Mad-Mike

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Mad-Mike last won the day on September 18 2017

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About Mad-Mike

  • Birthday 02/09/1983

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    Insaneviking83
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    http://creepingnet.neocities.org

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    Reno, NV
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    mechanical stuff, electronics, computers, and of course, guitars. Truck/suv modification/repair

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  1. I'll be lurking around here again for awhile, I'm going to be updating my setup guide for the Jag-Stang in a hard-rock context, and hopefully soon re-making my Jag-Stang/Mustang vibrato setup video as it's time I did a newer, HD version with some of my updates.

  2. Actually the "Trem Lok" button locks the tremolo from going UP. How it works is it slides between the pressure plate and tailpiece frame to block the vibrato from going sharp if a string breaks, disabling the floating feature but allowing the guitar to soldier on through the song/gig until the broken string can be fixed including downward travel for vibrato if needed. What's funny is I wound up disabling mine on my Jaguar.....it's never needed it, and I still beat the bar like a red-headed stepchild on that guitar.
  3. I'm wishing Fender would put this out as an individual part so I could buy one and try it out in my Jaguar and my Jazzmaster. Honestly this to me is more interesting than the Mastery ever was.
  4. Jag-Stang's are going up in price because Fender won't make a new version of them. Kind of irritating because the Hollywood Office had a prototype of some kind of Jag-Stang back in 2016 but that's the last we saw or heard of it. I've gotten to the point myself I'll just build my own. Most Jag-Stangs are going to run $600+, looking at other guitar sites or independent shops might be better than trying to ggo through e-bay since the last time I looked the cheapest one was over a grand.
  5. I see the description on reverb was updated. That said, they did make Classic players with single coils, but I've only seen sunburst examples IRL, but Oly White was an option IIRC. The main difference besides the pickups were the HH classic players forewent The stock Jaguar wiring in favor of a kill switch and coil split rollers where the rhythm circuit was. The SS Jag CPs had stock 60s style wiring.
  6. Basically what everyone else has said, plus putting VM saddles on the Japanese bridge does not work, they won't fit. There's a 1mmish difference between the saddles on the Chinese and Japanese stangs. I put Jap saddles on a Chinese bridge....it's quite unstable due to gaps between the saddles.
  7. Pickguard screws are pretty much the same bog standard nickel plated stuff most guitar builders use. You can buy them from Fender if you want to go OEM for a bag of like....11, but there are cheaper resources. Yes, the bridge/tailpiece screws are longer. That's normal. They have to hold 80-200 LBS of string tension hence the length. My Jag-Stangs screws have some tarnish and rust and look black...but that's because I play it all the time.
  8. Hi Mad Mike,

    I just bought a Vintage Modified Mustang and I was reading your post about setting up the trem. I'm a bit confused on a few points and I was wondering if you could help me out.

    First, you mention lubing the pivots and the screws. I assume this means to lube 1) the area on the post which pivots, 2) the knife's edge on the plate which the post pivots on, and 3) the screws....where? which screws?

    Second, you mention wrapping the bridge screws with 3M tape to stick them in place a bit. Could Loctite achieve the same result? I'll be using Loctite to hold the saddle intonation screws in place.

    And lastly, you mention that the stem of the whammy bar should be at a specific angle. Are you referring to the angle at which the whammy protrudes from the cigar bar when at rest, relative to the surface of the guitar?

    Thank you,

    Sasha

  9. They should fit, you may need to drill a hole between the two original ones on the bass side for the other side. Pretty easy change. Those 3 screw pickups only offer one benefit and that's using the screws on the bass side to adjust the tilt of the pickup to put it parellel to the strings.
  10. Potentiometet values are a big part of it. It's that 50k Linear for the tone knob that is a big part of the dark sound the lower the number value on the pot, the more highs are rounded off and the darker and mellower the guitar sounds. Probably a 100k linear or even 250k would brighten it up.
  11. It's a tad more complex than that though. When the Jag-Stang came out it was a rather maligned mid-priced instrument, particularly the bridge and the pickups. So the majority out there were probably already modified, esp the 1995-2001 "first run" guitars. People usually copied Cobain/Bailey and put a TOM and at least a SD JB in the bridge to copy their idol. I've seen a few even put EMGs in theirs like mine surprisingly (which were in it when I got it). And unlike a strat, aside from necks, there's not a lot of easily accessable, high profile, choice for aftermarket bodies. There's just Warmoth that I'm aware of and theirs is a contoured swimming pool route very unlike the original, if unfinished, slab body the Fender OEM guitars had. It's not like a Stratocaster where everyone and their sister has some version of it. And "underground" makers require some social networking to find. Building your own body...especially the Jag-Stang, can be quite challenging, especially if you're new to wood working. For starters, you'd need either to buy the blueprints or get someone with a Jag-Stang to trace their body for you. Then after cutting out the shape, there's finding the centerline so the neck, pickups, bridge....all the hardware, line up correctly, which the asymmetry can really throw you off, it even did to Fender Japan (my 95 and the Fiesta Red one from the 1996 sweepstakes had the same problem of the neck being slightly angled to the right bringing the strings out of line, I shimmed my 95 to fix that). Then there's tools...at the lowest you'll need a pull saw to rough it out and a scroll saw and a lot of patience to cut the body out...plus a drill and a router to cut the cavities out for the electronics and possibly the bridge. Not every one has the time/skill/budget/workspace to do that. Some people find it easier just to start with a barebones "chassis" and work up from there. That's also why I wish Fender would just release the Jag-Stang as a lower-mid-priced Squier and be done with it. Then there would be a good source of quality Jag-Stangs out there to modify without ruining original stock. They had that Hollywood prototype in 2016, that's what I was hoping for.
  12. Why I changed was because the Revolutions were truly my dream tuning machine head. Even as sturdy as the tone pros are, I'm VERY hard on my guitars - think Steve Vai/Stevie Ray Vaughn/Eddie Van-Halen hard on them, and my Jag-Stang starting as of 2014, was doing sometimes up to 3-4 1.5 hour rock shows a week live, and was getting quickly thrown into gig bags with minimal padding sometimes to go into my car late at night when I was in a hurry to get home and sleep for work. I broke 2 of the Tone Pro high E string tuners on the Jag-Stang due to a few accidents between shows with Zombie Jihad and the Sweaty Vedders, so in 2015 when the Revolutions were fairly new, I bought a set for my Jag-Stang and a custom Mosrite style guitar I built - both of those guitars still have those tuners and they both get used VERY hard - my Jaguar got upgraded about a month after those two. What really drew me to the revolutions was that they were sealed gear tuners like the Schaller style tuners Kurt Cobain used, and my old Kramer guitars had which never break and some of those got slammed on the ground headstock first by accident and still work like new, one set of those is almost 35 years old now. But the thing I HATED about the schallers was that installing them on anything that had "F" tuners or Klusons looked awful with the extra holes, and I absolutley LOVE slot shaft tuners because I don't have sharp ends of string to work with, plus I find restringing faster with them. Also, the Revolutions can come with standard bushings (My Jaguar and a Memphis/Behringer strat I have have those), my Jag-Stang and Mosrite have bolt tuners. ALL are split shaft. I still have TonePros on my Telecaster and my Jazzmaster as of current, though I plan to upgrade those if they break. So I can vouch for both, I don't gig the Tele or Jazzmaster as much.
  13. Kluson tone pros with press fit bushings. They look stock but are stronger. I had them on my Jag-Stang until 2014 when I upgraded to Kluson Revolutions......which are the best I've had thus far. The durability and toughness of a sealed gear with the split shafts and vintage fender look.
  14. Third 2-way switch. StewMac FreeWay in place of the tone pot. Eight way 3 pole rotary in place of the tone pot. Three push-on push buttons ala Fender Elite Strat.
  15. Yes, it's doable. The Jaguar and Jag-Stang are both 24" scale 22 fret necks with the same heel width (or similar depending on vintage of the Jaguar). Honestly that's a favorite combination of mine, if only I had a duplicarver.
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