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Mad-Mike

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Mad-Mike last won the day on September 18 2017

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About Mad-Mike

  • Rank
    Rock Lovin, Offset Shreddin', Psychopath
  • Birthday 02/09/1983

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    Insaneviking83
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    mad-miker2012@outlook.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.youtube.com/creepingnet
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    creepingnet2001@yahoo.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reno, NV
  • Interests
    mechanical stuff, electronics, computers, and of course, guitars. Truck/suv modification/repair

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  1. I see the description on reverb was updated. That said, they did make Classic players with single coils, but I've only seen sunburst examples IRL, but Oly White was an option IIRC. The main difference besides the pickups were the HH classic players forewent The stock Jaguar wiring in favor of a kill switch and coil split rollers where the rhythm circuit was. The SS Jag CPs had stock 60s style wiring.
  2. Basically what everyone else has said, plus putting VM saddles on the Japanese bridge does not work, they won't fit. There's a 1mmish difference between the saddles on the Chinese and Japanese stangs. I put Jap saddles on a Chinese bridge....it's quite unstable due to gaps between the saddles.
  3. Pickguard screws are pretty much the same bog standard nickel plated stuff most guitar builders use. You can buy them from Fender if you want to go OEM for a bag of like....11, but there are cheaper resources. Yes, the bridge/tailpiece screws are longer. That's normal. They have to hold 80-200 LBS of string tension hence the length. My Jag-Stangs screws have some tarnish and rust and look black...but that's because I play it all the time.
  4. Hi Mad Mike,

    I just bought a Vintage Modified Mustang and I was reading your post about setting up the trem. I'm a bit confused on a few points and I was wondering if you could help me out.

    First, you mention lubing the pivots and the screws. I assume this means to lube 1) the area on the post which pivots, 2) the knife's edge on the plate which the post pivots on, and 3) the screws....where? which screws?

    Second, you mention wrapping the bridge screws with 3M tape to stick them in place a bit. Could Loctite achieve the same result? I'll be using Loctite to hold the saddle intonation screws in place.

    And lastly, you mention that the stem of the whammy bar should be at a specific angle. Are you referring to the angle at which the whammy protrudes from the cigar bar when at rest, relative to the surface of the guitar?

    Thank you,

    Sasha

  5. They should fit, you may need to drill a hole between the two original ones on the bass side for the other side. Pretty easy change. Those 3 screw pickups only offer one benefit and that's using the screws on the bass side to adjust the tilt of the pickup to put it parellel to the strings.
  6. Potentiometet values are a big part of it. It's that 50k Linear for the tone knob that is a big part of the dark sound the lower the number value on the pot, the more highs are rounded off and the darker and mellower the guitar sounds. Probably a 100k linear or even 250k would brighten it up.
  7. It's a tad more complex than that though. When the Jag-Stang came out it was a rather maligned mid-priced instrument, particularly the bridge and the pickups. So the majority out there were probably already modified, esp the 1995-2001 "first run" guitars. People usually copied Cobain/Bailey and put a TOM and at least a SD JB in the bridge to copy their idol. I've seen a few even put EMGs in theirs like mine surprisingly (which were in it when I got it). And unlike a strat, aside from necks, there's not a lot of easily accessable, high profile, choice for aftermarket bodies. There'
  8. Why I changed was because the Revolutions were truly my dream tuning machine head. Even as sturdy as the tone pros are, I'm VERY hard on my guitars - think Steve Vai/Stevie Ray Vaughn/Eddie Van-Halen hard on them, and my Jag-Stang starting as of 2014, was doing sometimes up to 3-4 1.5 hour rock shows a week live, and was getting quickly thrown into gig bags with minimal padding sometimes to go into my car late at night when I was in a hurry to get home and sleep for work. I broke 2 of the Tone Pro high E string tuners on the Jag-Stang due to a few accidents between shows with Zombie Jihad an
  9. Kluson tone pros with press fit bushings. They look stock but are stronger. I had them on my Jag-Stang until 2014 when I upgraded to Kluson Revolutions......which are the best I've had thus far. The durability and toughness of a sealed gear with the split shafts and vintage fender look.
  10. Third 2-way switch. StewMac FreeWay in place of the tone pot. Eight way 3 pole rotary in place of the tone pot. Three push-on push buttons ala Fender Elite Strat.
  11. Yes, it's doable. The Jaguar and Jag-Stang are both 24" scale 22 fret necks with the same heel width (or similar depending on vintage of the Jaguar). Honestly that's a favorite combination of mine, if only I had a duplicarver.
  12. 1.) The Jag-Stang is likely a little thicker because of the humbucker but I think the jarring effect of the change to out-of-phase makes it a bit hard to do a comparison. The best I ever got was comparing an EMG equipped Jag-Stang (mine) to a 1966 Fender Mustang (also mine). The Mustang was a twangier guitar all around due to that bridge pickup, and drastically lower on output. Also, Mustangs vary from period to period. The vintage ones were wound less as hot (my Mustang had a 5.9K and a 5.3K pair of pickups in it - bridge and neck respectively), but the modern Mustangs Fender makes ar
  13. I find some things odd with this guitar....don't want to be a buzzkill but.... The Serial# V069200 would be a MIJ Serial# from circa 1996 - some of us here on the board have Jag-Stang's with earlier serials - mine is U023314 for example (MIJ), the registry puts mine as a 1995 - which was the first year these were made from what I understand (the first reviews and writings about them started to appear around mid 1995, I remember Guitar Player's September 1995 issue had a full page review of the "Brand new" Fender Jag-Stang). Kurt Cobain's red prototype from the custom shop I'd think would h
  14. You might be able to raise the mute on the offending side by loosening the screw that holds it down on the corresponding side. Sounds to me someone setup this Jaguar and did not take into consideration that the neck shim they used was either A.) Too high for the mute, or B.) the mute needs adjusted to push upward more. The Jaguar mute is a finicky device, I installed one on my CIJ back in 2007 and used it for awhile but found it a bit annoying because you actually HAVE To shim the neck to make it usable as the bridge has to be raised to clear the screws that hold the mechanism on. I'm toy
  15. You might be able to raise the mute on the offending side by loosening the screw that holds it down on the corresponding side. Sounds to me someone setup this Jaguar and did not take into consideration that the neck shim they used was either A.) Too high for the mute, or B.) the mute needs adjusted to push upward more. The Jaguar mute is a finicky device, I installed one on my CIJ back in 2007 and used it for awhile but found it a bit annoying because you actually HAVE To shim the neck to make it usable as the bridge has to be raised to clear the screws that hold the mechanism on. I'm toy
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