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Everything posted by Mad-Mike

  1. I hear they are a tad taller than strat pickups but will fit the covers. I know this much, good candidate for a bridge pickup as Jaguar pickups are typically a small percentage hotter (6.8K for the bridge being the most common, though I've seen as high as 7.5K on a Jaguar bridge pickup).
  2. Wow, never thought I'd see this one top the Jag-Stang forum list of threads again. I should do some updates, maybe a new post on some of the crazier experiments I've been doing lately (60 degree knife edges, hacksawing the spring posts shorter for more bar travright now I'm running my Jag-Stang on Ernie Ball .008-.038's and it chokes out no longer even with the action very low, and I think I hit the ceiling on downward pitch with this setup). One new note - The new Mustang Tremolo units - in particular the Japanese ones, some of them DON'T have knife edges in the pivot holes, without this it'll never stay in tune. I have 3 plates for my Jag-Stang now - the original (it still works but the pivots are worn out and bent from so many wild gigs in the 00's), a new one I am keeping JIC, and another one I put on in 2012 along with all new trem hardware that has the three notch pivot springs.....what I did was this...... - The trem was taken apart - The pivot posts were hacksawed to only have 2 pivots so they would closer match the ones my 1966 Fender Mustang had - I re-drilled the pivot holes at 60-ish degrees like a Floyd Rose, now they have a razor sharp cheese grater level knife edge on them, I also did this to move them forward as the 60's Mustang vibratos have the tail-bar closer to the bridge assembly - which gives more downward travel If you want the holes just like on the older units, you can get a countersink bit and use a drill to grind the edges in with that. That's what I've done for years, both to round out any pivot holes that were damaged from heavy wear or to fix these newer plates. I dunno what Fender or their Hardware source is thinking doing this. I don't think the VM Mustangs have this issue though - I played one a few months ago and played it much like I do my Jag-Stang, stayed in tune just as well.
  3. I'm hoping if this thing does come out that they would offer more color options, I'd be totally down for a Sunburst, Olympic White, or on the more obscure spectrum - Competition Blue Jag-Stang as a backup. Looks like they did make some subtle changes to the body line on the newer one. I also found out what is up with it - It apparently is one of the guitars Fender keeps in their new Hollywood Office - the picture was taken at the grand opening of that location this past weekend - kind of crazy considering it also coincides with the 25th Anniversary of Nevermind almost. I wonder what they put in there for pickups.......maybe something more aggressive in the bridge like a J.B.
  4. So apparently, a photo on Instagram from someone at Fender hints at a possible reissue of the Jag-Stang, just though everybody would like to get a look at this thing. Interesting color, looks like they are using a slug/screw arrangement on the bridge pickup (maybe an actual Seymour Duncan JB or similar this time - rather than a piss poor attempt at something else). I hope it's true and they are bringing this one out. https://www.instagram.com/p/BKrOUg_D0oE/?taken-by=otisserie I tried embedding it and told me it's an "unsafe operation" whatever the heck that means.
  5. Schaller Strap Locks. That's also what I use. There's also a cheaper Schaller compatible Pro-Tone branded set one can get at Guitar Center a bit cheaper.
  6. I think the Cobain Mustangs might have been direct mount, I got to look at some shots of one of Kurt's guitars and it looks like Kurt's own Mustangs were screwed directly into the wood IIRC (not the Compstang though). The Jag-Stangs are not the same, the pickups mount through the pickguard. Also, the Jag-Stang shipped with a relatively weak bridge pickup originally (a 7.5K Ohm DiMarzio H3/H8 I recall) - not so sure about the "Santa Ana" pickup in comparison or if its even the same recipie done by another manufacturer. Body mounting pickups does affect the tone a bit because it couples to the body, and on a guitar like a Japanese Mustang or a Jag-Stang that could be a great thing because the pickups couple to the body wood rather than the pickguard giving a more direct connection to the guitar's natural vibrations, and in the case of basswood guitars like these there's a lot of sonic data to pick up due to the less-as-dense body wood.
  7. Going off of your post, sounds like you have a short somewhere involving the bridge pickup and grounding, so when you flip that switch on, it's sending the entire signal to ground like if your volume or both pickups are off, killing the whole guitar. I would look for shorts, and also make sure that the pickup is not shorted as well (ie, bridge pickup should read 11.5ish K Ohms on a Squier VM Jaguar - they are very very hot bridge position single coils - I love em').
  8. IIRC - Elias had to put that neck on that guitar as the only Japanese reissues with B&B were CA Red and Lake Placid Blue. I dunno, it's been over 10 years so my brain's a tad rusty. Don't remember where he got it. The quest in Right Handed might be easier, you may just be able to dial up a neck through Warmoth, or find one of the parted out ones on e-bay. They do get them from time to time but they tend to be a bit more expensive than buying a secondhand dot neck. The models with the blocks & Binding are the Japanese 66' Reissues, and the 50th Anniversary Jaguar. Vintage necks tend to be extremely expensive as B&B necks are not that common - Fender started installing those on Jaguars in late 1965/early 1966 and that was well after the Jaguar's surf heyday so they did not sell too well. I saw they put B&B on the Squier VM Bass VI, I always thought they should have made a Jaguar variant like that. I want one because eventually I want to build a pre-Kurt build of Cobain's Jaguar (basically a Martin Jenner Jag).
  9. I'd say play them all - should not be too hard since there are now Sub $500 Squier VM versions of all of those guitars now for a general idea of what they play like. Dunno about the guy in Tad's Jazzmaster. Have not studied their gear much. I will say all three of those are very different from each other and very different from a Strat....in general..... Jazzmaster - 25.5" Scale, wide flat pickups that are succeptable to hum, all of the electronics are on one big sheet of plastic so when things go wrong it's harder to fix them without removing the strings or making a big deal out of it. The overall sound is that of like a Pissed off Telecaster with more bass, with a very piano-like delivery to it and a sudsy, spongey bright treble but a thick low and naturally scooped midrange due to the pickup setup. Uses a dual circuit design same as the Jaguar below but uses a 3-way switch instead of individual on/off for each pickup, and has no high pass filter (strangle) like the Jaguar. Jaguar - 24" Scale, so lighter string tension, and with the Jaguar/Jazzmaster bridge setup this, for most people (not me) means higher gauge strings. Overall tone is similar to a Jazzmaster but with a much more pronounced midrange for some reason, and the attack sound is waaaay different (more of a Tchak than a "ping" - very Duffy initial delivery of notes). Jaguar's have a ridiculously good ability to imitate a Gibson guitar, amazing considering the little strat-like pickups it has, but they are indeed hotter than your average Strat (6.4K = Strat, Jaguar = >6.8K or higher in the bridge typically). They have their faults but can be easily mitigated with careful placement of adjustments and tiny mods. while the Jaguar has 2 more switches than a Jazzmaster, the idea is pretty much the same - 2 circuits, one neck pickup only and uses rollers on the upper horn, and another where each pickup has it's own switch to turn them on and off, plus a high pass filter known as a "strangle switch" that makes the sound tinnier and twangier, and uses conventional volume/tone knobs. Mustang - 24" Scale, small bodied, offset Student guitar with a totally different vibrato setup. The vibrato, at best, Is kind of like the best of having a Stoptail and a Tune-O-Matic mixed with the worlds smoothest Kahler vibrato ever created, and it can get down and dirty like a Floyd Rose no problem with proper setup. The Mustang sounds somewhere between a Jaguar and a JAzzmaster, a bit less duffy attack due to the different bridge setup, sounds more like a Stratocaster in the bridge, and a Piezo acoustic in the neck, both pickups together in phase gives that sort of oddball springy thing the Jazzmaster has with more mids, and out-of phase it does that whole Peter green "Clonk/Clomp/Honk" thing with more accented treble and high mids. Each pickup has its own switch that changes the phase of the pickup depending on which isde it's on, leading to some redaundant sounding presets.
  10. Ah, Elias, I've not seen him or his guitar stuff here in years. You most likely would have to build one. Though I think there may have been a MIJ/CIJ run of B&B Jaguars, but I don't think those were in Left-Handed format. Your cheapest/Best bet would be to get a MIJ/CIJ like Elias has and swap the neck with a B&B neck from someplace like Warmoth or Musikraft or wherever lefthanded B&B necks are possible. Might still cost more than usual. Could also just source out a left-handed body and neck and populate it yourself if you're comfortable with that.
  11. It could be the amp or just a subtle effect. I don't have a lot of experience with the Marr Jaguars, but I can chime in on one thing... Amplification makes a HUGE difference in how your Jaguar's controls are received. I have a Bugera 333XL, a Digitech RP-250, and a Fender MiniTone Master amp - out of the three, the most responsive to change of the Strangle switch is the Bugera (Tubes and 120 Watts), the least responsive to anything is the little 1W plastic battery powered mini Tone Master amp. Another thing is the Series switch only affects the 4-way selector switch when it's in "Series" mode (which I think is all the way toward the neck, but don't quote me on that). So it won't have any effect on it in any other selection mode.
  12. I've seen it with heavy strings before on many guitars, not just the Jag-Stang. Might need to lighten the string gauge. The Low E is the biggest B**** to intonate IMHO b/c of this problem regardless of the guitar. Gaaah, having bad flashbacks to my .014 gauge string days. Also, you could maybe compensate by moving the whole bridge back a little bit too, the bridge freely rocks in those two little thimble things in the body. Could be you have it pushed all the way toward the neck. I have almost spotless intonation on mine but I'm also running .009's and have the bridge centered.
  13. From my well warped mind...... The Jag-Stang either had the same pickup marketed under 2 names or had 2 different pickups depending on production run stock from the factory. The initial run (1995-2001) - Those guitars were marketed and said to have a DiMarzio pickup in them - which I can believe, as at that time of production, DiMarzio was Fender's primary pickup outsource (Fender always had an outsourced pickup brand, and then their own in-house designed and built stuff to provide a broader range of options - I think this started sometime in the eighties so they could built the Yngwie Malmsteen Stratocasters for production, which lead to Dimarzio pickups being used in a lot of guitars including the Heartfield series and Heartfield based Prodigy model). The initial Jag-Stang pickup was said to be a 7.71K Ohm Ceramic humbucker similar to a Dimarzio Evolution neck pickup called the H8 or Hsomething at least. They were notoriously bad and low output for the application these guitars would typically be used for. I have played one of these pickups in a 1998 CIJ Jag-Stang many many many years ago. By the second run (2003-2006) - Fender had changed their outsource to Seymour Duncan (hence all the Duncan Designed pickups on Squiers, and the offering of the Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates in the LoneStar strat, among others). So Fender either used some Japanese made pickup possibly designed by Duncan, an approximation of the original H8, or something closer. I've had people tell me these newer pickups were better and hotter than the original Jag-Stang default bridge pickup. The pickup was marketed as the Fender "Santa Ana" Humbucker. As for how it is now, I think Fender probably has some other arrangement now where they can use anyone's pickups, which would be the preferred thing as the mainstream technie guitar public wants glorious options from everywhere. I think it's way different now, that's the only way I could explain them having Seymour Duncan JB's in the Kurt Cobain Mustang and DiMarzios in the Jaguar. If it were 1993 and Fender was making those models, the Mustang would have a DiMarzio in it, and the Jaguar would be the only one doable 100%.
  14. Which version of the Jaguar, Vintage (1962-1975), Japanese (1985-2011), Mexican (2007-present)?
  15. If it has a V and six digits, the info is most likely not correct, unless someone replaced the neck. The Japanese Jazzmaster reissues were called 62' Reissue though a 64' Reissue would be a more accurate description. The original production runs were 1985 to when Fender Japan stopped production in 2010-2011ish. The 1982 era Japanese guitars had a JVxxxxxx serial#, so unless this guy forgot the J when printing out the ad, and has a super-rare early pre-production guitar, his naming is incorrect.....In the case of the Jazzmaster, a V series serial will have a non-bold Made in Japan logo above it, and would make for a instrument built around 1996-1997 - making it one of the last Fujigen Gakki guitars before Fender switched to Dyna to build their Japanese guitars in 1997-1998ish. In America, typically the Fujigen guitars had basswood bodies (generally). Also, Japanese Jazzmasters were made from 1985-2011. 1985-1997/98 at Fujigen Gakki, 1997-2007 at Dyna Gakki, and I dunno who made them during the final production, they might have moved back to Fujigen Gakki again for all I know. In 1982, only ONE Jazzmaster was made, and it was at the original Fender plant in Fullerton California, and that was for a retiring Fender employee who was very fond of the Fender Jazzmaster - this one - http://c-nelson.com/1982-fender-jazzmaster/ - serial# S800746
  16. I put the original pickups back in mine, sometimes it get's a EVH D-Tuna attached to it (sort of communal amongst my Floyd Rose equipped guitars)
  17. All you would need is the regular Fender Mustang wiring diagram because those are both single coil pickups. If your Jag-Stang was wired for in/out of phase on both pickups from the get-go, it might just be a matter of soldering the hot and ground leads to the same spots the original pickups were installed. Here's a Mustang Diagram
  18. On the subject of the bridge, I know staytrem does make 9.5" radius replacement Mustang bridges without the individual saddle adjustment. That's what worked best for me is the old-school, non-adjustable Mustang bridge - just don't use a vintage one as the radius won't line up properly. If you are looking to put a Tune-O-Matic in there, you could probably just order the Fender Adjust-O-Matic hardware in there and make some small wood-modifications to get around the bridge issue (maily filling post holes and redrilling). As for the tuners, Vintage-Style tuning machines use smaller drilled holes to go through the headstock, you WILL have to redrill those holes for a modern set of Gotohs, Schallers, or Grovers to fit there, basically anything with a bolt that goes through the headstock around the tuner shaft, rather than press-fit bushings around the tuner shaft.
  19. 250K Audio Potentiometers. Remember, the whole "Grunge" thing was based off grabbing inexpensive guitars from pawn shops and quickly modifying them for heavier music. Most of those guys did not even know what the word "Capacitance" meant. Mustangs shipped with 250K pots by default, and I don't think Ernie or Kurt swapped the pots when they replaced the bridge pickups with whatever they used during whatever periods. There could have been times where a 500K was tossed in there just because that's what they had on hand at the time though. The official Fender stuff though is 250K pot based.
  20. No real way to tell, especially since Fender in more recent years out-sources some of that hardware from the same Asian companies making the reproduction hardware for other brands. If it's a vintage Fender, you can tell if it's an original 60's Fender or a Asian reproduction because the Fender bridges that came with original sixties offsets (Jaguar/Jazzmaster/Mustang) had rounded "rivet" holes over where the action adjustment screws for the bridge frame itself.
  21. The main reason most people don't want knots in their guitars is just for cosmetic reasons. I'd say it gives it some cool character.
  22. Without making a wiring diagram.....the simplest way to do this would be to get a Cobain-style switchplate for the lead circuit, transplant the Strangle switch to that, then rather than routing the neck pickup through the rhtyhm/lead circuit selector switch alal normal Jazzmaster/Jaguar, you would wire it directly to the 3-way like you would on a normal 2 pickup guitar, then run that entire switch plate into the rhythm circuit. Granted, it would not allow one to have individual preset pickups for each circuit, but it would allow one to have either pickup through the rhythm circuit. Funny enough, I was planning on using this on a home-made Jaguar I built in high School.
  23. Yes, the Mustang pickup will fit, it's essentially a stratocaster bobbin with the pole pieces ground flush with the flatwork. There should be no issues there at all. 500K pots will brighten the sound a little bit, in my opinion, with the Jag-Stang, that's a good thing because they tend to be naturally very warm and wooly sounding guitars naturally (usually).
  24. Jag-Stang bridges are 7.16" Fretboard radius, same as the vintage Mustang. Adjust-O-Matic guitars are all 9.5" Radius. I don't think Fender used a 12" Radius on the Cobain guitars, or any for that matter. Actually, an interesting fact about the Cobain guitars - both Kurt's actual guitars and the signature models, is the string height adjustment. When Kurt's guitars were setup for the Gotoh Tune-O-Matic, I'm pretty sure Ernie Bailey might have filed the saddles so that it matches the radius. Most of those gotoh tune-o-matics come without slots cut in the saddles - I know because I've installed quite a few on Harmony H-804s before (which have varying fretboard radiuses due to chintzy build quality), the outer saddles probably needed filed pretty deep, while the middle two were left fairly close to unfiled, probably just a notch to hold the string in and nothing more. The Cobain Mustangs - the ones in the store - have a purpose-made 9.5" Radius neck, same as the one found on the Jaguar HH Special actually, which has been available since 1998 and utilizes a similar adjust-o-matic bridge. I owned a Jaguar HH special about 8 years ago, I remember noting how low I could get the action on it without choking out on bends on the upper frets, and how much flatter the fingerboard felt, it was because of the radius difference. As for the Jaguar, that guitar probably DID have a proper fretboard radius to match the bridge, the neck on it was unoriginal. It originally belonged to Martin Jenner who played with Cliff Richard, and had it's neck replaced in the 80's (reproduction logo, strat-like headstock), and was likely recontoured to follow the Tune-O-Matic bridge that was installed by Jenner or whoever owned the guitar between him and Kurt. I have played a Cobain Jaguar before, the fretboard does have a flatter radius than a regular Jaguar does. If that was not the case, then the Tune-O-Matic on it was much easier to file to the radius because it's an ABR-1, which I've also had on a Jaguar before (my 98' CIJ) - the outer two saddles had to be cut through about halfway to match the 7.16" raidus of the CIJ's 62' reissue neck, and 1/3rd of the way through for the A and B strings.
  25. The fretboard will age to that color. When I first got my Jag-Stang, the fretboard was almost orange, now it's a dark dark brown color. ​ I use Guitar Honey on mine for the same purpose. Rosewood needs some oily moisture so it does not crack. I usually do it after I clean the fingerboard off while restringing, it also tends to make the grain pop, I think they put some wood conditioner in there.
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