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Tune-o-matic bridge question


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I'm thinking about getting a standard tune-o-matic bridge in my mustang, but there is something i don't understand. It's about the radius thing, what exactly is it that doesn't fit? and is it the saddles on the bridge or the saddle on the guitar im supposed to file? I also wanna know if it's even a good idea to get a tune-o-matic bridge. I have read on some threads that people find it unnesary.

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set your guitar up, make sure the nut isn't binding, etc...and you'll soon forget all about wanting a ToM. If you are unable to set your guitar up, there are plenty of folks here who will help you out, or you could take it in to a trusted guitar tech. Most techs are happy to answer any questions you may have.

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  • 4 weeks later...
my guitar has a very good setup but i feel like the stock bridge is somehow inconstistant and it's like the bass strings can't stay in tune and is buzzing ect. won't i get anything from a tune-o-matic bridge if my setup is good?

yea...a touch more sustain, but the ToM is set for 12" radius and your guitar is a 7.25." Also, you can forget about using the tremolo, too.

Boo ToMs!!!

Hooray stock Mustang bridges!!!

TRUE STORY.

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the curve of the fretboard radius will leave your outer strings sitting higher above the fretboard than your middle strings.

also if you get the TOM you'll have to shim the neck, because the height of the TOM would put the action sky high. you'd have to remove the neck and put something in between it and the body to make the neck sit higher. then you'd have to raise the pickups a lot and the strings would be further away from the top of the guitar than they are now.

i don't reccomend it on any stangs. the mustang is supposed to be a certain way and if you start changing it into something it's not, you may even ultimately get the end result you want... but by that point it's a mustang only from outward appearances and you may as well have bought a cyclone II or something.

still, it's your guitar and your decision. some people on the board seem to have had luck with this mod and the mustang is cooler looking than the cyclone anyway so i don't blame you. it's just not something i would personally do to a mustang, given the various cons and further mods you need to do to make it work.

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the curve of the fretboard radius will leave your outer strings sitting higher above the fretboard than your middle strings.

also if you get the TOM you'll have to shim the neck, because the height of the TOM would put the action sky high. you'd have to remove the neck and put something in between it and the body to make the neck sit higher. then you'd have to raise the pickups a lot and the strings would be further away from the top of the guitar than they are now.

i don't reccomend it on any stangs. the mustang is supposed to be a certain way and if you start changing it into something it's not, you may even ultimately get the end result you want... but by that point it's a mustang only from outward appearances and you may as well have bought a cyclone II or something.

still, it's your guitar and your decision. some people on the board seem to have had luck with this mod and the mustang is cooler looking than the cyclone anyway so i don't blame you. it's just not something i would personally do to a mustang, given the various cons and further mods you need to do to make it work.

sell the Mustang and go buy a Schector. :x

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  • 3 months later...

Not to kick a dead horse (reviving this thread).....

but has anyone seen the tune-o-matics with roller saddles? Radius issues aside, it seems like this should solve the tremolo arm problem....

thoughts?

Also, has anybody put graphite or bone saddles on a mustang bridge? I have graphtechs on my other guitars (tune-o-matics) and they are a big improvement over the old (sharp!) ones.

I also use 12-52 gauge strings that shred saddles....

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