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FAO: Fender Jaguar owners - The Bridge


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The stock Fender Jaguar bridge is a common cause of problems for the new Jaguar owner, there are various solutions to the various problems you may encounter.

This is a cause for debate amongst some Jaguar users, however, the most important thing is to find a solution that works best for you. There is no right or wrong way written in stone somewhere in the corridors of Fender.

On this forum this is a common topic within this section, we get the same questions over and over again. So..

There are some set-up tips in the FAQ section on this website and also on http://www.fenderjaguar.net/setup.htm where this topic is covered in depth.

After years of answering peoples questions concerning the Jaguar bridge on Youtube i thought for quick access i will put up some information here that i hope will answer some of the newer users questions.

Common Problems

1/ The bridge rattles and buzzes

2/ The grub screws work themselves loose

3/ The bridge moves back and forth

4/ The bridge slips down during playing

5/ The intonation screws are too long

6/ The strings jump on the saddles

At this point its worth considering a few things about the Jaguar. Firstly it was designed with the intention of players using heavy gauge strings like 12s or 13s. This does help with some of the problems but it does not mean it is the best answer to the problems, modern players generally use smaller gauge strings so if you dislike heavy gauge strings you can dismiss that solution.

Secondly, the bridge is supposed to move/rock back and forth. That is part of the design and how the tremolo system works, the bridge rests on two screws that forms a pivot whenever the tremolo is used. Fixing the bridge may jeopardise the tremolos performance, the guitars tuning AND you may encounter excessive string breakage.

Common Solutions

1/ There is a device called a 'buzzstop' that is available from various stores and ebay for around

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You wasted your time fran :P
That depends on what Alex does with this thread.

I put it here as easy access for new members, instead of having to answer the same questions over and over again OR people like you giving incorrect advice.

Mikes video is new, if you could be bothered to look i have had a Jaguar set up video on Youtube for two years with over 1,300 viewings. There is also Hurbs set up which is years old. Get with it man.

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Greetings from the land of Queen Catherine Zeta Jones (Wales, UK). I bought my Jap jag when they came on the market in Oct 1987 and straight away had it professionally set up. The bloke who did the work used a kind of glue called Lok-tite to cement the grub screws in position and they've only ever moved when I've taken a screw dirver to them. I've not used a plectrum for about ten years and so pulling the strings hard is part of my rhythm & lead styles. This used to produce problems with my ultra thin 8 gague high E string jumping off the saddle. Not any more, for about 5 years ago i simply hacksawed a deep groove into the saddle which now holds the string snugly until it snaps (about every third recording session). My tremelo unit locking button used to both rattle and slide into the lock position when I didn't want it to. I've remedied that by using a small circle of carbon fibre that bikers use to protect their machines from scratches & weathering and which are called "strips n dots". I simply cut a slot out of the centre and slid it inbetween the button and the main trem unit plate where it acts as a little pad or buffer. The rattle stopped and the button now only moves when I want it to.

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Since posting my last reply I've come up with an idea for tightening up the whammny bar holder which tends to unscrew itself during violent bar activities. As you know the bar slots into the cylindrical holder which in turn is held in position by a nut that can only be accessed by removing the "Fender" stamped plate. You can tighten the holder by hand or with a pliers but the first is not really effective and the second could maim the holder's chrome. My idea (to be tried during my next change of strings) is the dismantle the trem unit, put the holder cylinder into a vice and drill a hole through it at a right angle. This hole can then be used to put a hex key, nail or any other small bar of metal through so as to act as a turning lever that can be used to effectively re-screw the cylinder tight. My true sovereign and imperatrix Queen Catherine of Zeta, has sadly setled down with some old American bloke, but I stil hope that her heir in waiting, Crown Princess Charlotte of Church will one day leave her handsome young rugby playing chap for a more mature Jag-toting Welsh muso. PS, there might be photos of my legendery "Catwoman" Jag on this site shortly.

Happy trails. THE BIG CAT

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The buzzstop modification is, of course, completely reversable.

Something here should be said about neck angle. There are, undoubtably, minor variations in neck angle [to the body, as viewed from the side] between different individual jaguars. This affects string tension over the bridge as much as anything you could do behind the bridge. One may wish to shim their guitar neck. Some Fender necks I've seen come from the factory already shimmed. It's just one more thing you can do, [or un-do], to change the tension of the strings.

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I have also figured out that the lock trem on my MIJ Jag does'nt really work. I completely removed the Trem assembly and saw when you move the lock switch all the way back it never really makes contact with the knife edge of the Trem. Its a shame because if you break a string their goes your tuning. I think if you could add a Larger Washer to the bottom of the slide cylinder then it might grab and lock. You would think someone would have picked this problem up at final assembly. I have read about this problem more than a few times :-hmmm

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I've never read that to be honest.

Here's a wiki page i wrote about the Jaguar,

http://www.shortscale.org/wiki/index.php?title=Jaguar_Modifications_detailed

if you look at the trem diagram the lock switch slides between the two plate's. So it is 'sandwhiched' if you like. If the tension is set wrong the lock switch will just hit the side of the bottom plate unless you dip the bar then slide it across.

You probably know this, but may be helpful to other people. Its all to do with the balance between tremolo tension and string tension for it to work correctly.

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Fran - Your are 100% right - I feel like a Dope. I had the trem out of the guitar and sitting on the table and I could not get it to lock. After reinstalling it and holding down the trem arm slightly - It locked right up - The movement is less motion but I probely need to loosen up the spring tension a wee bit. Many thanks -- Gasee :D

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Hai guise

I posted this shiny muthafcka a while ago because it's beautiful, and as looking through the jag thread, I was liek "o_O those saddles? what are they? I want them >>"

100_2560.jpg

so yeah, anybody know where I can get em from? Looks like they'd solve the problems between the strings popping out on jags + jazzys and height adjustments on mustangs (much like the mastery bridge, no? although would there still be problems with grub screws eventually working themselves loose??)

HELP

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