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FAO: Fender Jaguar owners - The Bridge


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When I say they're pretty decent, I mean there are absolutely no problems at all, I use 10-52 strings and found that I no longer need a buzzstop 'cause they're much better fit and finish than the stock saddles, and actually help the whole guitar resonate a bit better. They look a little funny (I dunno if you've seen the stringsaver ones, they're solid black), but I'd recommend them highly to anyone.

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Hi everyone - new here!

I have an American Jag - the bridge keeps falling down when I play however hard or soft I am going.

I've read you guys recommend glueing as one option. Would it be possible to get a replacement bridge instead? One that doesn't have the funny grub screws or something? I'm not sure I fancy glueing my screws into my bridge, and buying a better bridge seems like the best option given I don't want it to fall down during a gig.

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Welcome to the forum.

Glueing the grub screws is'nt needed dude, its messy and makes future adjustments almost impossible.

If you wrap some PTFE (Plumbers tape) around the post screws they will hold and the saddle grub screws should hold with something like vaseline, chapstick or even candle wax. Its worth trying and will save you the money alternatives will cost; a Mustang bridge or Mastery bridge.

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Cool, thanks for the advice and the welcome Fran. Do I just apply it to the part of the screws sticking out from the bridge or the entire thing? My grub screws are usually ok, it's just annoying when the bridge falls mid session!

So with a Mustang or Mastery bridge they'll just slot right into the holes no problem?

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A mastery bridge fits in the sockets tightly, and doesn't rock back and forth. The Mustang bridge rocks back and forth the same way the regular bridge does. I find that the problem is that there's nothing to determine with any real precision where the "center" point is, when setting the bridge up, and it's been impossible, in my experience, to adjust the intonation without pushing the bridge out of it's "center" position- making precise intonation nearly impossible to achieve. Then there`s the problem of the bridge "falling" backwards or forwards in the middle of playing something, and the difficulty of "centering" it in mid song. I've solved these problems by intonating the guitar with the bridge pushed all the way back, and leaving it there. The vibrato still works very well, as I mainly use it to bend things down, anyway, and if the bridge migrates forward while using the vibrato, I can just pull the bridge back with relative ease, even while playing.

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Cool, thanks for the advice and the welcome Fran. Do I just apply it to the part of the screws sticking out from the bridge or the entire thing? My grub screws are usually ok, it's just annoying when the bridge falls mid session!
Unwind the screws a little, wrap the tape around then adjust them back. It works.

I had the same happen to me years ago at a gig, only it was a Mustang bridge on my Jag-Stang. I had to pack a card beer mat under the bridge to try and stay in tune.

You can get some intonation problems with where the bridge is set but i always found it marginal and unoticeable on any recordings. To be fair, the Jaguar is not for finicky players.

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that skide switch on a jaguar trem, ive read that ut use to have use on the usa jags as took lock the spring or sumthing? why dont they do this on the mexicans or just get ride of it and make a flat plate instead of leaving a useles slide there?

The lock is NOT useless! If you balance the vibrato spring tension with the string tension (using the screw just behind the lock button), so that the lock button slides freely back and forth without affecting tuning, engaging the "lock" will keep the vibrato arm from pulling UP. Thus, if you break a string, or use, say, a dropped D tuning, the vibrato spring tension will not put the other strings out of tune. Works like a charm.

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