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TheDumeister

Rewiring My Jag-Stang 500k Pots with Mustang Patterns HELP!

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Hey guys! I'm totally new to soldering and wiring and all that, so I decided that my Jag-Stang will be the red-headed stepchild of my collection, and endure all my abuse.

I have decided to rewire my Jag-Stang like so:

ROUTING.png

And for some reason, I get the feeling I'm doing something wrong? My single coil has an output of 6.8k, and when I tap it with my pliers, I don't hear anything unless I turn my amp all the way up past-55%.

I'm still using a "dummy" humbucker until my GFS Crunchy Rail comes in the mail.

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I researched on Google a little bit and found out that a no-load pot doesn't work very easily for volume control. I don't know anything about no-load pots, but just a suggestion and a place to start. Here is a page I found at Strat-Talk...

http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/tech-talk/39237-why-you-cant-use-no-load-pot-volume.html

Again, you may know more than me about no-load pots and know that this should work, but in case you bought the wrong pot I thought it was somewhere to start... good luck :)

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I normally use linear taper pots. No idea what no load ones are.

+1, that's what I use, and I believe that's what most Fender's use, correct?

From what I gathered, the no-load pot is typically used for the tone control

and when it gets either fully clockwise or fully counterclockwise, it gives a little

click and that indicates that the pot is being fully bypassed, as if your guitar

was only set up with a master volume.

Sounds pretty awesome, and something I'd be interested in, but I can see

how using one for the volume pot would be difficult to wire properly.

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+1, that's what I use, and I believe that's what most Fender's use, correct?

From what I gathered, the no-load pot is typically used for the tone control

and when it gets either fully clockwise or fully counterclockwise, it gives a little

click and that indicates that the pot is being fully bypassed, as if your guitar

was only set up with a master volume.

Sounds pretty awesome, and something I'd be interested in, but I can see

how using one for the volume pot would be difficult to wire properly.

Well, you can't use them as a volume pot anyway because when in the full open position it bypasses the pot completely. None of the fenders have came with no load pots, just standard linear taper pots.

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Yeah, that makes 100% sense redman. So when it's full engaged and clicked and it "cuts" the volume pot out of the wiring, that would explain no volume at all or barely audible volume as the OP stated. Even if there was some strange workaround the OP knows about, it would still be making the wiring more of a pain in the ass than it has to be. Best answer to the problem: buy a standard linear pot.

Or instead of buying a new linear pot, you could swap the no-load from the volume and use it as tone control / tone bypass which is what I've read that no-load pot is being used for anyway. Although, if you find yourself using the no-load tone wide open and bypassing the tone, you could just cut the tone pot from the wiring altogether and have just a volume pot.

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Yeah, that makes 100% sense redman. So when it's full engaged and clicked and it "cuts" the volume pot out of the wiring, that would explain no volume at all or barely audible volume as the OP stated. Even if there was some strange workaround the OP knows about, it would still be making the wiring more of a pain in the ass than it has to be. Best answer to the problem: buy a standard linear pot.

Or instead of buying a new linear pot, you could swap the no-load from the volume and use it as tone control / tone bypass which is what I've read that no-load pot is being used for anyway. Although, if you find yourself using the no-load tone wide open and bypassing the tone, you could just cut the tone pot from the wiring altogether and have just a volume pot.

well, looking at his diagram, he has a 500k taper pot and a 500k no load pot, so why not use the taper for volume and the no load for the tone.

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