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Hello all,


I've just bought myself a brand spanking new Fender Jaguar HH Classic Player (Sunburst) and I'm really loving the way it sounds. I still have yet to get it set up proper. I kinda got a few questions and was hoping you guys could help a fellow newbie out? :wink:


Firstly, I couldn't find the manual for it anywhere. Weird that Fender didn't have it come with the guitar. I still need to wrap my head around the switches but so far, I'm almost there, I think. How do you switch to a single coil pickup, if you're using either the neck or bridge humbucker? Also, any idea where I could get the manual?


I'm thinking of giving my Jag a boost with a pickup change in the bridge. I really love the high output and punch of the JB but they come in either SH4 or TB4. Which one would suit the Jaguar? I've also read that 500k pots works best for SD pickups, does the stock Jag's circuit include the 500k pots?


I've read that that Jag's a wee bit weak when it comes to tuning stability, would the need make any upgrade on the bridge in the near future to counter it or it's really nothing to be cranky about? I am using thicker gauge strings though (12-60's)


Anyway, I'm really stoked on being part of a unique community,

Thanks for reading and have a pleasant one!

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As far as tuning stability, your golden the cp series has the trem moved up and a TOM bridge with a compound(i believe) radius neck so you won't have any tuning problems, especially with the gauge you are using. as far as the switching goes, and im pretty sure the cp's are wired the same. the three slider switches go as such, the first one or the one closest to the neck engages the neck pickup, the middle switch is for the bridge, and the third and last one closest to the bridge is a 
strangle switch or a bass cut switch. the rhythm section bypasses the lead circuit(the normal vol. and tone) and is used on the neck pickup only, it has a 50 k tone pot and a 1 meg vol. pot.

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Hi Robert,


Thanks for that! Really helps. Also, the guitar has a floating bridge too, that's great if I'm doing alot of tremolo action but I rarely do. Would it help with tunings if I somehow 'block' it like most Floyd Bridges or is there a way to?


Thanks again for helping me ease my way in to this unique guitar!

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there is a lil 
"disc" that locks the trem from upward travel, you could just put that in place, or you could tighten the ajustment screw all the way so that way it has no upward travel at all, and if you ever did decide to use the trem it would "dive only"

as far as the bridge, doesn't it have a TOM on it? it shouldn't move at all. otherwise you could tape the posts in place to keep the bridge from moving back and forth with the vibrato unit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,


So far, I've made several adjustments to suit my music. Firstly, I slammed in 62's D'Addarios and tune them to Drop B. I had a tech do it for me and so far, I'm pleased with the results. However, I feel that the thickest string (6th string) has some fret buzz issues on fret 1/2/3 but not at the higher strings. My 5th string has the same issue but very minor.


I've faced these situations before with my Telecaster and I brought the bridge up to eliminate the buzz. How I can I do that with the Jaguar? Also, the buzzing most from the frets and not the bridge, thank god.


PS. I would have the same tech to do it again but I don't see the point of travelling miles just to fix a problem that I could probably do myself.


Thanks for reading!

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I have the same guitar, mine is in olympic white. never had any issues with it. The stability of the bridge is not an issue since it uses a TOM already. The bad bridges are the traditional ones with the grooves. I have 4 Jaguars, and the HH is the most versatile and the one that needs the least modifications. It is an awesome guitar as it already is.

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  • 2 months later...

I thought the switching was terribad on these guitars. That kill switch is useless, kind of a waste of a switch imo. I've just designed a new wiring for my CP HH Jag which you may find interesting, much more options sonically to choose from...


You get one of the rollers back as a volume pot for the neck, so thats 1 independent and 1 master. The second roller stays as a coil-cut, again for the neck. The bass cut is gash, so I added a bridge series/parallel switch instead (single coil on bridge is too quiet compared to parallel). The killswitch is still a killswitch when only the neck pickup is on, but become a series/parallel switch for bridge and neck when both are active. You could change the bridge series/parallel or bridge on/off for a phase switch if your into that, but having both pups in parallel, and the options of that circuit with the coil-cut and bridge series/parallel should make for a versatile enough sound, compared to the stock wiring...

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