classic58 0 Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Hello all, I am new to this forum. I have recently come into a vintage Fender Mustang. I am hoping to clean it up and restore it as much as possible without taking away the value of the instrument. I was told that this was a 1966 Mustang. In the research that I have done, some things seem to match with that year while others do not. I am certainly not an expert when it comes to this model and would like some help. The color of the guitar is black. The finish is very old and cracked in some areas. From my reading I am not sure if this is an original color or if it has been refinished years ago. The pickguard is a pearloid 3 layer which I was not aware that they made in 1966. The neck and headstock look to be original and of a 1966 vintage. I have 2 main questions: 1. Did the Mustang come in black in 1966? 2. Was a pearl pickguard available in 1966? Thank you so much for any insight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mad-Mike 18 Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Nope on the paint, in 68' I believe the Mustang only came in the usual 3 Student model colors (red, white, and blue), The pearloid guard on the other hand was a period correct feature and only came on the Competition colors and the Blue and Red Mustangs. Tortishell was used on the White. Fender did not start offering black until around 74' 75'ish. And by then, all models were coming with B/W/B pickguards and only came in black, white, sunburst, or wine red transparent, though sunburst started being offered around 71'-72ish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic58 0 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Thanks, I did look up the serial number using the web site: www.guitardaterproject.org. According to this the guitar was built in the Fender Fullerton factory in 1966 -1967. So according to this the original color was definitely not black. The finish is very old so I suspect that someone repainted it very early on using some type of lacquer. Also judging by the pickguard, I suspect that the original color may have been red. I could be completely wrong though as the pickguard may have simply aged to the more creamy white that it is now. The instrument was kept in the home of a smoker and I notice that the tuning keys have discolored to a more creamy white as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robert(original) 30 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 have you taken the guard off? if you do i would be willing to bet that some of the original paint is on the back, perhaps there could be some in the routes and neck pocket as well. i would be willing to be its an old re-finish, mainly becuz when black was introduced they switched from nitro to poly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic58 0 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Actually I need to clean up the electronics on this guitar so I will be taking the pickguard off to get access to the pots. I am hoping that I can find some remnant of the original color somewhere in the cavity. I need to find some 'down time' so that I can work on this. If/when I find out I will let you know. Thanks all for the suggestions and the help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic58 0 Posted November 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 I took the Mustang apart this morning. I found that it was originally red. The black finish is very old and looks to be some type of lacquer but there is red in the cavity. The guitar was repaired in 1978 by BFE Custom Guitars in Southwick Mass. They did a decent job of soldering the wires together but then used masking tape for electrical tape to insulate the wires from the copper shielding. The tape was so dry it turned to powder when I touched it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robert(original) 30 Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 cool cool, seems you now know the origin of color. i have seen people that were able to take off the re-fin(if its just on top) to reveal the original finish. its a bit of trick and i wouldn't try it unless the top coat was really horrid and you hated it, but as you said it seems good right? so rock on! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic58 0 Posted November 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 I am not going to mess around with the finish at this time. The black finish is not in bad shape for it's age. IT is definitely relic'ed naturally which give the instrument an authentic feel (which it is). There is some 'buckle rash' on the back. When I looked at the paint that was 'buckle scratched' on the back it looks like the original red finish was removed before it was repainted. So I don't think removing the black will restore the red underneath. All things considered I will most likely leave the black finish in place. I did do a full setup on it. It came out very nice and plays great. I left off the bridge cover so I can use my palm to mute the strings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robert(original) 30 Posted November 18, 2013 Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 yea, the bridge covers for mustangs, jaguars, jazzmasters, strats teles etc are garbage for palm muting. they look nice, but there is a reason they got the "ashtray" association, better ashtray than bridge cover i suppose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doug 8 Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Congratulations, Classic. What a great vintage guitar to have. That bridge cover is precious. Most got removed for the same reason you're removing it, and then they got lost. To find a vintage Mustang with the bridge cover is rare and adds to the value of your particular guitar. So keep it in a safe place while you enjoy the guitar. The original red for that year Mustang was Dakota Red. If you ever want to recapture the vintage correct look...(won't matter, one refin and the vintage value was diminished)... ... Fender Dakota Red is available from Guitar Re-Ranch. By the way, do you have the A or the B neck?...I believe it's the A that's 24" scale with 22-frets, width 1-1/2". That's more valuable than the shorter 22.5" neck, narrow width, with 21 frets...unless you have small hands which would make it great. Check out what our forum friend just posted...http://www.jag-stang.com/forum/topic/6885-my-1965-mustang/ Cheers, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic58 0 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hi Doug, I have the bridge cover secured in a sealed bag that I have fastened into the case so it will not get lost. I also have a spare set of trem springs and a set list from someone who had the guitar before me. My goal is to keep the cover protected and secured so it does not become separated from the case. The case is also original and not in bad shape. This guitar has the 'A' neck with the 24" scale. Thanks for the tip on the paint. At some point I may decide to refinish it back to the original red. I don't have the time to devote to it right now. If I do refinish it I want to make sure that it is done right with no 'shortcuts' taken which will take time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.