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Hi. I am planning on modding my Surf Green Squire vintage modified jaguar to have 2 4 wire humbuckers, a three way toggle switch, and a coil tap on the neck pickup, however I want to keep the rhythm circuit and low cut switch. (basically similar to a Kurt Cobain jag except only master volume and master tone, neck coil tap, and keeping the low cut switch) I'm 17 and I'm not very good with wiring, also jag wiring is especially confusing. Would anyone be able to help me figure out a wiring diagram for this, or at least help explain it to me? Are there any other mods I should try for this guitar? 

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    • By LP8506
      What I mean is that you still have the 2 on/off/on switches meaning that you still have the in and out of phase options
      BUT you have 2 push pull pots to coil split both humbuckers.
       
      So what would the wiring for this look like?
    • By alivingh
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      Question:
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    • By alivingh
      Background:
      Tele player here. I am looking to give offsets another try but I'm a little scared. I once owned a cheap fender blacktop jaguar and it was an awful guitar. Although it was cheap, the major issue with it was that the neck pocket was completely flat and it would not intonate properly(past the twelve fret it was way sharp and the action was way too high). No amount of playing with the truss rod, bridge, or saddles could fix this, even when it was taken to a professional. Since then, I have decided to never buy a bolt on guitar with a raised bridge. Still, they look so cool and I can't help but want one. I also think they have the best sounding trems.
       
      Question:
      Are there any offset guitars that fender currently sells that come with a properly angled neck pocket? I noticed they fixed the saddles on a lot of these guitars in recent years and I am wondering if they have fixed the neck pocket angle on any of them as well. I know you can shim the neck, but I don't' want to stick a piece of plastic or wood in the neck pocket of my guitar, I want one with the neck pocket cut properly or I don't want one at all.
       
    • By taoubt
      Several years ago I posted about how I was kind of disappointed in my Jag-stang. The output seemed kind of weak, the intonation wasn't great and the wolf tones on the low E string around the 12th fret were horrible. I recently decided to just see what I could do with it. I was nervous to mod it, since I really wanted to keep all the original parts. So, I decided to just do a full swap of the electronics, pickguard included. While it still has some issues that I haven't been able to figure out, swapping out the pickups was by far the best decision I've made in terms of upgrading. The intonation is still a bit rough, but seems better with the right gauge strings. I've tried different strings, but I mostly used to play with the Slinky Hybrid strings and they just don't seem right for this guitar. Now I'm just using a standard set of 10's and it feels much better. I considered a new bridge, but for right now I'm pretty happy with it, so I'll save that for later (if needed).
      For the pickups I decided on a Seymour Duncan JB SH-4 for the bridge position and a custom shop Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates (strat sized) for the neck.
      I went with a tortoise shell pickguard that came with copper shielding. I then shielded the entire cavity with copper tape. I got new 3-way slide switches, new output jack (pure tone multi-contact to keep a tight fit), new push-pull pots and added a metric toggle switch for pickup selection. To add the pickup selector switch, I got a custom control plate with 4 holes; one for the toggle, two for the pots and the last for the output jack.
      The Mustang/Jag-Stang pickup selection method never seemed ideal to me, so that's one of the reasons I added the toggle switch. The bigger reason, though, is that I wanted to use the 3-way slider switches for series/parallel/coil split control for both bridge and neck pickups.
      The push-pull pots add even more versatility with a phase flip for the neck pickup by pulling the volume pot and a master parallel/series control by pulling the tone pot.
      This gives a crazy number of combinations for a wide range of tones. All in all, I believe it's something like 42 options. The bridge pickup is great for heavy stuff in the series humbucker mode. The neck Is a bit boomy and dark in series humbucker mode, so I usually either run it in parallel or split. But my favorite sounds involve both pickups being on in different configurations (coil split/parallel, etc). The master series switch is really only useful in a few cases, in my opinion, like with both pickups in coil split mode. The phase flip offers some really interesting tones, too, and it can really vary based on the selected mode of the pickups.
      The main thing I think I would have done differently if I were to redo this project would be 500K pots, since I just went with 250K ones without really thinking about it. I feel like some combos are a bit too dark and having 500K pots would give more room for that top end to shine. You can always roll it off with the tone knob, but you can't add it in. 😕
      All in all, the build took a little time, because I wanted to tread carefully and make sure the wiring was all going to work properly. I had to sort of piece together bits of schematics from different sites. I also found it a bit difficult to manage the wiring since the Jag-Stang body cavity is so limited on space. I initially wanted to turn the bridge pickup to have it parallel with the strings, rather than angled. But I really didn't want to dig into the body of the guitar. As it is, I have all the original electronics mostly still together on the original pickguard and control plate. I'm pretty happy that the look of the guitar isn't too radically different from the original and I didn't have to modify any original parts.
      If anyone is interested in the schematics, I could probably draw that up. I never put together a full document, as I just worked in pieces, hand-drawing the wiring for sections. Let me know what you think!
       
      Before                                                                                                                                                 After
       
                               
      These images were taken many years apart with drastically different lighting. I tried to color correct a bit without going too crazy. I think the "after" image is closer to the true color, but it definitely looks different depending on the light. The warmer the light, the more it brings out the greenish tint in the paint.
       
      Here are some images before the rewiring process:
       


       
      And here are some during the rewiring process:





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